I would like to re-motor and DCC equip this loco. Currently it does not work well on DC. Even after lubing the motor only turns when I help it along by turning the flywheel by hand. Not sure of its history. It looks like it is new with a little scuffing from sliding around the box for years. The only reason I want to re-motor is for the experience. I have the parts sheet for it with part #'s. Where would I go for a new motor and any thing else I would need for this project. I looked on the NWSL site and was promptly bewildered with all the choices and sizes of motors??? Any help would be appreciated.
Terry[8D]
There are several questions here. Probably most important is whether it is going to be just a re-motoring or re-powering project. Re-motoring is easy, rip out the existing motor and replace it. Re-powering could involve going down to the frame.
If you are planning on a straight remotoring there are several considerations that will make it easier. Fortunately it is fairly easy since you don’t have to worry about fitting the motor into a narrow hood.
- The replacement motor should be double shafted.
- The length of the motor should be the same as the one being removed.
- The shaft of the new motor needs to be the same diameter as the existing one. This will allow all the other current drive train parts just to be pressed on.
- The over all diameter of the motor should allow the shafts to be at the same height as the original when it is placed into the frame. While this is not critical, the more angle one puts on the u-joints the less smooth the loco will run. Also if it is too different the original shaft may become too short.
- You can buy a nice concave mounting plate for the new motor (if so be certain to include its height into #4 above), OR simply mount the motor directly to the frame with the GE Silicone II household adhesive (I’ve tried other brands including ACE hardware’s and they don’t work as well). Side note here also be certain to seal off any openings into the motor while the silicone is curing. This is because it emits a caustic gas (umm forget its name) that can potentially eat through the insulation on the delicate can motor armature wires.
- Finally, if you c
I would re-ask the question, as “What current F-7 chassis will fit my 1984 Athearn BB shell?”
I’ve got some old-as-the-hills GP-9’s, but when I got a new one, I gave up on re-motoring anything. You can find a P2K engine for around $40 if you don’t care about the roadname. There’s no way you can even touch a motor for that, let alone the wheels, flywheel and other stuff. A bit of body-work with a Dremel, an you’ll have a completely re-furbished engine in your old familiar colors.
TexZ -Thanks for the infusion of info. The most important part of your msg was that Athearn now has window kits. i was wondering if my loco had lost its windows or never had any. I guess that answers that question.
MrB - Yes i realized when I was thinking of this project i could probably buy a new loco for the money spent on a refurb. I just wanted to get some experience in re-motoring and frankly I think it would be neat if I could resurect this old Loco. I have decided to go with a new Athearn Motor for 14.50 and see how it goes. worse case it will sit on the loco inspection pit.
Tks for the input guys.
Terry[8D]
The Athearn site says it takes 4 to 6 weeks for delivery of parts??? Anyone know any other online vender that carries Athearn Parts?
Terry[8D]
Texas Zepher - I checked the Athearn site and couldn’t find any reference to the F7 window kit? Where can I find it? Thanks
Terry[8D]
Email me your address and I’ll send you one. I have a bunch of them left over from repowering jobs. Free of charge. Jay.
Actually you can get a Mashima moter w/flywheels for about $30.
Here is some info: http://www.ppw-aline.com/re-power.htm
Jim
Get Athearn parts from Horizon. I get mu order 2-3 days and so far their instock listing has been 100% correct. They carry the stuff in Chicago so if you’re out east shipping isn’t that long.
I think you need to figure out what is wrong before you invest a lot Athearn motors can loose their magnetic strength if disassembled, which a lot of people unknowingly did to lube them. It sounds like this may be what is wrong, in which case a new motor would help. However, it could be other things, - short in the wiring, binding in the drive etc.
Tks Jim. Great site for more than just repowering.
Terry[8D]
While you are waiting for the new Athearn motor to arrive, you might want to “clean up” the chasis to improve electrical pickup, especialy the ground side of the truck-chasis mounting for improved performance. At the same time you can start prep for the decoder install with an attachment point to the chasis for the ground. While most of the work on Athearns involves improvement of the “hot” side connections by installing the wire jumpers from the bracket over the gear towers, your problem may be accumulated oxidation from “box time” that can be "burnished off to get better pickup.
Good luck with your remotoring project, have fun, learn alot, and come back with more questions as they arise.
Will
The old F7s never came with windows. Walthers makes a “dress-up” kit that contains the winshield, porthole glass, etc. along with all the grab irons. This set will do an A-B set of F7s or F9s.
Not true at all. Athearn sells replacment motors for $14.50- $21.50
http://www.athearn.com/Products/Parts/Default.aspx
Thanks guys for lots of ideas. I think I will take it apart and do a clean and inspect. I assume the decoder that Digitrax sells (solderless conections) for Athearn will work with this. I actually have one but I had to use one of the wires the other day. I think this will be a fun project. Oh forgot to mention, this may be important lol. when I hooked it up to DC the other day and cranked up the voltage the motor would not turn so I gave the flywheels a spin and it helped but as soon as I took my finger off the flywheel it would stop. Never did more than a slow revelution at max voltage. Then the good part …I noticed a smoke like substance rising out of the motor housing. When I realized it was smoke I turned off the power and so I am sure I do need a new motor. There are no wires just metal straps clipped on the top of the motor and tucked under each truck pickup. I could not imagine reliable operation with this sort of connection. I will check out Horizon and also Walthers for the window kit.
Terry [8D]
Well, I the label on mine says “11016 F7A-F7B Window Set 2 per pack”. I presume the 11016 is the part number.
I just got mine off the shelf at the local hobby store “Caboose Hobbies”.
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/Description.cfm?sku=014011016
After looking at gaping window holes for 20 years they are well worth it.
Texas Z - Thanks for the additional info. You are right those empty holes are ugly. I will be getting a set of windows.
Terry[8D]
Texas Zephyr and scubaterry,
If I remember correctly, the Athearn winodw kit is for the porthole windows in the F7. I have never seen a molded plastic windscreen supplied by athearn. Years ago, I made my own with CrystalClear, the Elmers Glue lookalike that is used to form odd-shaped windows. I used a bent paper clip to spread the CrystalClear from one edge to the other. Takes a little practice, and you need to “line” the edge of the window with a tiny bead of the stuff before you try to apply the bulk of the material. It adheres by surface tension. If you apply a tiny bead, you can control where it goes; if not, you can’t!
Regarding the Athearn motor, I’m sure I could tell you how to significantly improve the one you have. I do them often, and have listed the procedure in the forums before. If you are interested, send me an e-mail and I’ll get into the details for you. Once you learn how, it will help you diagnose motor problems with Athearn and other small electric motors.
Good luck,
Mark C.
Mark - Email on the way. Tks
Terry[8D]
I decided to start on my project by painting the body. Put on a coat of plastic primer and two coats of gloss black. Looks real good at this point. Next week I will put NYC decals on it and be ready for the new motor. I even remembered to take pictures this time.
Terry
[8D]
You didn’t read the post real well, I was not speculating. I just purchased and installed one. Your memory is correct but that is why I said they “now make” one and later included the part number. The sets include the windshield, trust me, my F7A has a windshield.