I got an old Rivarossi Dreyfuss Hudson last year as a birthday present, but it’s never run well because of bad wheels. Rivarossi’s wheels are usually very good, but I’m sure I’m not the only one who has gotten one with bad wheels (off center, split center, etc.).
I just ordered some new 80" wheels from Bowser to replace the old ones (Greenway Brass will probably work too, but they cost almost twice as much), and I have a pretty good idea of how to mount them. So for those who want to upgrade their old Rivarossis for whatever reason, stay tuned for the “how to” topic I’ll be posting in the near future.[:D]
This could get interesting because Rivarossi steam locomotive drivers were as a rule considerably undersized – the old Model Railroader reviews would comment that with the oversize flanges the visual effect from the side was sometimes fairly close. So scale wheels would be 79" but it would not surprise me if the Rivarossi wheels on their NYC Hudsons were and are closer to 72" or so.
Dave Nelson
The Rivarossi wheels were definitely undersized because of those large flanges, and it’s often very noticable. The Bowser wheels have RP-25 flanges, so the full-sized 80" drivers should fit fine. I noticed quite a bit of slop between the axle and idler gear, so I may also be able to lower the chassis slightly to compensate for the increased wheel diameter. I guess we’ll see when the parts come in![:D]
I have several Rivarossi steamers and most have the newer RP25 drivers, but one that I can’t seem to find is their 0-8-0 switcher. I have a very detailed one but it has the large flanges and won’t run on my code 83 turnouts. I would love to convert them to RP25 drivers. I will be watching for your posts as you progress on your project. good luck an keep us all up to date.
Bob
My question is why bother? The old Riverossi’s had oversized flanges, sloppy gearing and an inadequate motor that stuck out into the cab. The latest examples are much “tighter” with a can motor, decent flanges and much better running characteristics. Of course, if you just like the mechanical challenge it could be a worthwhile project from the psychological point of view but those old crocks normally reside in the junk box nowadays. That being said, a friend recently brought an old Riverossi Berkshire to my layout complete with horn hooks. After we made a transition car it picked up a long string of passenger coaches and ran like a deer with them, even surmounting my 4% grade with uncompensated curves. Life is full of the unexpected…
I’ll be staying tuned, Darth. I’m interested to see how you fit those drivers on the original brass axles. [:P]
I bought a junker RR FEF-3 years ago that had two sets of loose drivers. The geared set was the worst, as the original owner had run it after the drivers came loose and bored out the axle holes. I rebuilt the inside diameters with CA, trued and quartered them, and it runs fine to this day.
I’d like it to run well because it’s a good looking model, and it was a gift. The gearing is a little sloppy in its current state, but I found that I should be able to adjust it for a tighter mesh. Rivarossi’s gearing is really very good for its day, and usually only needs a little fine tuning to run smoothly. Once the drive wheels are replaced, I may also switch out the rest of the axles to match the new RP-25 flanges. But one thing that’s for sure is that I’m going to do what I can to get this thing running well.[:D]
I’m actually going to be getting a BLI brass hybrid Dreyfuss Hudson when they come out, but I still want this one to run well anyway.[:D]
Well,I see you have your reasons. I like reviving old neglected brass engines, myself. There’s room for everyone in this hobby. Good luck with this and all your projects!