I own an Ho Atlas AEM SEPTA locomotive. I am doing a complete overhaul of the lighting infrastructure. Is it ok if I cut off the excess reflective glass inside the shell so I can individually anchor the LEDs on the holes including the number boards?
Sure it is ok if you are a skilled (or semi-skilled) modeler. LION is not one of these, but this has never stopped him from cutting and drilling. Try it on an old locomotive shell or even a box car to see how it works for you. Once you try it, you will always find something that you wanted to differently.
LION has eight subway trains, and each one has come through the rebuild process a little bit better than the one before it. Once I get the last one on the railroad, I’ll pull the first one off and apply upgrades to it.
ROAR
[%-)] The question reminds me of how a tag says it is unlawful to move the tag from your new mattress, or couch cushions.
Model railroading rule of thumb – You don’t know if it will work for you until you try it out.
When something works, it is one of the greatest feelings of satisfaction that can only come from a lifelong hobby like model railroading.
There are a couple of potential issues I can think, although I’ve not seen this particular model. Sometimes manufacturers use shielding to keep stray light from showing up where it shouldn’t, like through the cab or underneath the unit. Presumed that isn’t what you’re thinking of cutting out, it should be doable.
The other is that the excess glazing is there in part to act as a retainer for the visible parts in the windshield and side windows. If you cut that off, then you’ll need to glue or otherwise retain the glazing where it needs to be. Usually doable, but think before you cut if that is the case.
Check to see if the front headlight and number boards are illuminated by means of a clear acrylic light tube. If so, you can utilize that to your advantage. If the light isn’t fixed to the decoder, some 1/8" OD black heat shrink tubing slid over the head of the LED and onto the light tube and shrunk will 1) secure the LED to the light tube and 2) focus its beam for maximum illumination out the front headlight lens and number board.
You can also create an LED holder out of 5/32" styrene tubing for mounting the LED to a headlight lens. This is a rear headlight that I added to a Walther SW1 switcher:
The tutorial for that can be found here and you can adapt it to your situation.
Tom