reccomended table height

i know it would be up to my final decision about the table height, but i plan to make it 3 feet off the ground with a walk around space of 30 inches around the whole layout. i know once i get up in age it will be alittle harder to get under or on the table to do any repairs as needed. i went to the construction site and got the spare wood that they didnt need. i started pulling nails yesterday and every piece of 2x4 had enough length to at least be 36 inches tall. what do you guys thing about that height an what do you reccommend for the long run. any advice greatly appreciated.

thatboy aka reggie

Thats the height my last layout was. My new layout will be 40" up. I want a little more room under the layout, and I don’t want to have to look down so much at the trains!!!

36" was great for my 4 year old for watching trains.

I started mine at 48" (to make it easier to wire). I figured I could always shorten the legs later on if I needed to, but I could not reverse the process if I started with shortened legs.

The layout remains at 48".

Reggie keep in mind the “liitle ones” that may come along some day. Its a little tough on my old back holding my 2 year old up to see the trains on my layout. You could always build mutiple levels, with a lower level within reach for the kids with accessories and things you wouldn’t mind them messing with.

Very interesting thread! Regarding the height I would recommend somewhere around 42" or higher. I have had 30, 36 etc. and they are too short. Difficult to get under, most likely that will become a storage area, (might want to consider a low profile light or two attached to the bottom of the layout, easy to wire). And you have such a high view of the layout you really don’t get the perspective of all the detail on the cars, engines, etc. I doubt I would go back and shorten a layout but I guess it could be done. The train club I visit has one area that is 52" high, (due to step down room) and it is used for putting engines on the track . Boy is that ever convient.

Also look at RR software, once you get thru the learning curve it is great. The tutorial is pretty good. You will find you really can do a lot with it.

Reggie, If I remember correctly you said your layout was going to be above your garage. Just remember to take into account the slope of the roof vs the height of the layout. If your layout is too high, a train could conceivably hit the ceiling. I had to lower mine about four inches so a bridge near the back wall could not touch the ceiling.

Our layout height is 40" and I wouldn’t mind if it were at least 4" higher. Wiring was very easy with that height.

Jon

http://jands.logicalgeek.com/main.php

well i dont have to worry bout the slopes in the ceilling slopes as to where i designed that room just for my trains and nothing else. so in turn the ceillings are the standard height of a ceiling of 8 or 9 feet which ever is standard. but in one particular corer at the very end of the room the ceiling is sloped because of the way they designed the otside appearance of the house that is one reason i think that 36" is the right height but i might be able to squeeze 3 or 4 more inches out and not have a problem. i like idea of it being easier to wire and it will be easier on my back. i have to go and get the camera today that way i can take the pictures and give yo guys a better idea of what im talking bout. if everybody could give me their recommendation of a height i will take the mean of all the heights and go from there except in that far corner at the end of the room. as a matter of fact im going to go to the store now and get the camera that way i can give you guys the pictures you’ve been waiting for. give me an hour and i will be right back with the pictures

Before you decide on the height determine if you are starting with a flatboard or are you going to use the cookie method type of building your layout . Are you going to have different levels for your loops? Have you got any idea of what your layout might look like ? With all that equipment that you have you better take you time and plan ahead of what you want to do.

Great advice. This has been my approach, tho at one time I built a shelf layout with a varying elevation.

I built my layout at 44". For me that is a good standing height and also is a good height for sitting on a stool. Because this height is way to high for my son though, I will soon build a small platform for him to stand on and work his small section of the control center.

My layout is 42" high I find it a good height to work under when wiring. it allows you to sit up while working on the wiring. I have been reading alot of your posts. Your train room is going to be huge. The one thing I would like to suggest is keep in mind that you will want to be able to access your trains and sceanery on the table. the reading i have done suggests that a reach of 24"to 30" is the best. So try to take this into consideration when designing your layout. also I would strongly suggest that you invest in some design software. Your layout is very large and will require alot of work. I am currently building a layout thats 13’x29’ its a very slow process which takes alot of planning. This is part of the fun.[:)] I’m sure your very excited to run trains “like I am” but you don’t want to rush it and miss half the fun. What I do is I have a small oval of track in another room where i can run my trains a little just to keep my excitment at bay.

where would i beable to get this train software called rr which has been recommended to get to help me design my layout. actually didnt have to go an buy a camera. my other half just told me her sister gave her a camera which turns out to be a sony cyber shot didital still camera dsc-s50. now that i have that let me get the battery charged and i will go from there. guess what i just saved maybe another $150.00 from a pretty good hand me down camera which is like new to me. i getting the hang of this saving money thing now that im starting o build my layout. plus while i was waitng on her to get back home i finished pulling all the nails out of the scrap wood i got from the construction site. will take a few pictures of the wood once i get the battery charged.

I prefer 42" as a minimum, and actually like to see them a bit higher than that–at least for my own use.

As far as I am concerned, the closer to eye level the better, although an eye-level layout is not really practical in most situations because even though it may be easy to work underneath such a layout, it sure wouldn’t be all that easy to work on top of it in terms of laying track, constructing scenery, and that sort of thing.

Still, we most often view prototype trains from ground level, and not from the tops of mountains, so it’s kind of logical to have the layout at a height that comes at least somewhat close to ground-level viewing.

The design software that I have is RR-track v4.0. The web address is www.rrtrack.com. You can order online and get it with in a few days. If you want to try your hand at layout software you can download a free version at www.atlaso.com. This free software is designed for atlas o track only. The RR track software has several track system with which to choose.

are there any stores that might sale it that way i can go pick it up now

The fastest way to get it is to have it overnighted to you but it being friday the soonest you will get it is monday. The software takes a little getting used to. It will take time to learn to use it and become handy with it. It is very easy to use but will require some tinkering. Also if your still having problems posting pictures I suggest you go to the sunday photo fun thread there spankey bird has a link to directions to post photos.

40" is a happy medium. Actual optimum height depends on the depth of the layout, your height, whether you plan to sit or stand when you operate, and I’m sure there are more considerations.

You should consider these things and put togeter a mock up using some plywood or door slab set on boxes where you can adjust the height. Then set some track sections, trains, and accessories on it. Adjust the height until you find something you like.

My table legs are 44" with another almost 2’ with the plywood and/or homasote or acoustic tile. It’s great to work under and build stogage,too. My trick for gettin around under there is riding a furniture dolly, just sittin and pushing. I went to the Depot to buy casters to build one but the cost was the same as the dolly ($20)

[?]Maybe that shallow corner can be your control center, transformers, switches etc?[?]