I’ve looking for this NYC F12a for a few years and it finally became available.I’m going to run it tomorrow to see if is a decent runner(I don’t expect it to be because it’s a older brass model and they usually need work)
It’s a Precision Scale Co. model,made in Korea by D & D.Doe’s anyone know what year they were imported?
I plan on having Tony’s Trains install a Tsunami sound system and lights–LED’s or bulbs?If it has running problems,I think I would also have them re-power it and add pick ups on the tender.Looking around,I could’nt find anyone to custom paint it,so I’ll proberly take a shot at it.Should I have all the other work done first or paint it first?
Without digging out my brown book I couldn’t tell you when it was made. Being precision scale however, it’s probably a pretty decent runner. That said, Get Everything working right before attempting to paint it. Chances are pretty good that to install pickups, sound, etc, holes will have to be drilled. You don’t want to have the paint in the way of finding and fixing any glitches.
Keep in mind too that painting it properly is a multi step process requiring some disassembly. One thing about brass is you cannot be afraid to tinker with it if you intend to run it.
Enjoy the new loco and show us some pictures when you get it done…
Definitely paint it after all of the other work has been done. Sometimes, getting any steam locomotive to run smoothly involves disassembling and re-assembling it several times. Often a mechanism will run well as a chassis, but installing the superstructure can result in the same model not running at all. All of this activity is rough on the finish, so save the painting for last.
I’m not too familiar with NYC 10-Wheelers, but this sounds like it’s one of the larger ones, so it should be easy to install a can motor. The loco shown below, my only brass steamer, was an extremely poor-running B&M loco, with an open-frame motor and a surprising number of binds in the fairly spartan running gear. Due to the narrow firebox, I had to mount the new can motor in the superstructure, then connect it to the drivers with U-joints that need to be assembled at the same time as the boiler is assembled onto the running gear. The result was an extremely smooth-running loco that has a realistic speed range all the way down to a crawl. For a small loco, she pulls well, too, as I was able to add some extra weight. Control is DC, by the way.
Wayne
According to the Brown Book, PSC imported the NYC F12a in 1989 in three versions, as well as two versions of the F12e.
I dont have that model but saw some good photos. It is a really fine piece! Unfortunately PSC imported some models with problems, but I never heard problems concenring models from D&D. That manufacturer never produced “crap”. I would not expect to repower it. As others already said, do all necessary mechanical work before painting. I have quite a number of models where the drive lines are state of the art, but nevertheless the models didn’t run good because of some slightly bent rods, a couple of misalignments, binds in the valve gear, etc. So when your model won’t run very good I would check these things first and retry before I would isnstall a new motor. Binds could result from some flashes around the bearing holes of the rods. I have some models which ran considerably better after removeing these flashes and straightening the rods.
Have fun and yes - post a few pics for us!
If I’m not mistaken, this model came equipped with a coasting drive from the factory, not a very
good decision by Precision Scale. A more proven idler gear box would have been better. Is your
engine showing some sort of resistance (gearwise) when you open up the throttle?, mine does,
in forward or reverse position, every time no matter.
Regards,