I’m looking for a transformer, one that has good power and not real fancy. As far as I’m concerned, the more the better as it will allow me to grow and not having to worry about upgrading later. Any and all replies welcome. Thanks
First of all, let us know what the transformer will be used for. Do you want something to power accessories on your layout, or a power pack to run a train, or an extension power supply for a DCC system, Etc?
Good point. Mostly to run trains, no DCC. But still want good power. Thanks
So you want a power pack to run the trains and not just a “Transformer”. The difference is that a transformer simply steps the voltage down from house voltage but the output is AC.
Also what gauge trains are you running?
Hi,
check out my write up on the power packs I own. It might be of help, here it is:
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/168228/1850773.aspx#1850773
Hope it helps
Frank
The scale you are modelling will have some effect on the right power pack. For HO or N gauge, as Da Kraut stated, Model Rectifier is hard to beat. Any Tech 2 or Tech 4 will serve you well. Tech 2s can be found used at most train shows and swap meets, or on eBay, although because of the weight shipping is pricey. One of the best I’ve ever owned is the old model 501 Throttlepack, originally made in the early 60s. I still use one on my test track. New Tech 4s can go as high as $60+, used you should be able to find one for half that. A $20 bill should cover the simpler Tech 2s Stay away from most units that were sold as part of a train set.
I myself dont care for the plastic case of the newer MRC packs, still a good pack, but I dont care for the looks or the cheap feeling they have. I run older MRC packs on my layout, one is a Controlmaster V, and I have two Golden Throttle packs with the gold metal case. Many times you can find the older single and double throttles with the gold metal case and many times with lighted gauges super cheap and even new in the box on ebay. Hard to beat an old MRC throttle in good shape. Mike
I had a MRC 6200, it had great power and not fancy. But, it was defective and after a while I had to hit it with my hand to get it to work? I got it replaced by my LHS with a MRC 9500, it is fancy. But I loved the meters and it ran 4 Old Athearn Blue boxes with Rocket motors (said they where old, from the 70’s) with no problem.
Down side new they are around $100.00 and used still around $60.00 to $70.00. I sold mine for $65.00 and still kick my self for doing it. But, I am DCC.
Cuda Ken
Until I switched to DCC, I used my shop built SWAC 2 from plans in RMC. It has all the bells and whistles that modern units have including a steel case and 4 inch professional meters. See if you can find one or I can sell you mine.
Thanks to all that have replied. The reason I ask is I currently have a old MRC Model 3 that I really like but, it seems that after about 15 min run time the train slows to a crawl and the loco motor gets hot. This is either in the boost or normal position, and at full power. This is a problem that seems to have started in the last week or so. I thought it might be my loco’s problem, but not so because. I also have a small Bachmann transformer that I can run full power with no slow down or hot running locos all day long, even thought there’s not alot of power to begin with, so I’m wondering if maybe the Model 3 has a internal problem that’s causing this?
Also, please tell me what the difference with the boost button is? I can understand that it gives more power to the track to run faster, but what really is it for and could I leave it in boost full time? Thanks
Could be but it might also be the type of power. Some paks supply pulsed power which is great if the loco can handle it . Some don’t like it and prefer straight DC power. I’m not a DC guy but I slept in a Holiday Inn Express the same time A DC user group did. [:D]
I have four MRC Railpower 1370 power packs.
This unit costs under $50 and is currently on sale at Walthers for $35.98.
You didn’t give enough identifying information on the problem power pack. I am unable to get useful search results for just a “Model 3” on the MRC web site, so I’m not sure exactly what the intended function of the boost button is. My best guess without any further information is that the boost button raises the output to 18 volts maximum instead of 12. This is because G locomotives sometimes need the extra voltage. Running HO or N locomotives on more than 12 volts is not recommended (except for MTH DCS locomotives).
You could easily have a problem with the power pack, but it could also be a locomotive problem (in addition to or instead of the power pack). You don’t state whether the same engine was tested extensively with the other (Bachmann) power pack, or whether other engines have similar problems on the MRC Model 3.
If you use the pulse power position on the power pack for extended periods, you may get a motor pretty warm, and top speed will be limited. Note that this applies to some,