I guess I just assumed that he was looking for a way to handle the intermediate piecework, not ripping long strips off of a sheet. Personally, with one of these, I’ve never missed a table saw. I have a circular saw and a 12’ blade guide, which works just fine for the long stuff.
For that matter, though, you could probably find somplace to rent one for the weekend. My local home improvement center (locally owned, not a big box store) will also rip large pieces of wood for a nominal fee ($5 for a 4x8 sheet of plywood).
Whatever saw you end up getting, cut your sheets outside! The cloud of sawdust I created cutting my splines was last seen entering Russian airspace.
I ended up with two 10" Craftsman radial arm saws I got off of Craigs List. Both were like brand new. The first one I paid $75.00 for I ripped my splines with. The second one I bought for $60.00 and it came with easily over a $1000.00 of attachments that had never been out of their boxes. I gave the first one away as there were so many for sale on Craigs List I couldn’t be bothered going through the hassel of selling it.
A table saw is the first choice for ripping wood but it can also be done on a radial arm saw. I set up special benches out on the driveway to ensure safe ripping. I find a radial arm saw and mitre saw so easy to use if you need to make a quick cut at anytime throughout the whole building/modeling process. Setting up a table saw to make a quick angle cut I find to time consuming. That could just be me though.
[tup][tup] for splines. Splines and foam, the best decision I made.[C):-)]
I agree on the radial arm saw. I’ve had mine for over 30 years - old Sears 10" model. I added the wing extensions and those along with a couple of roller stands enable me to handle everything I need to do including a 4x8 sheet of plywood.
I only have Lowes make one cut if exactness is not critical since they can easily be 1/2" off.
With most power tools, it is the skill of the user that counts the most, even having been in the trades and just finished remodeling a house where I had to cut to width many a board, I never saw the need to buy anything other than my Hirsch (yah the one you mount the circular saw under), even my contractor which I hired for the main framing (real hard to work two stories up without help) used it. Had opportunities to buy one a few times but didn’t want too as this one folds up. If you go ahead and decide to buy one try getting a used one with a metal bed (just make sure the bed is not warped and the rip and crosscut fences are in good shape and can be squared).
However, I wouldn’t rip a 4x8 (let alone several) sheet with it as it is way too difficult to manuver the wood on the saw.
For that job, you really need either a cabinet shop style fixed table built around your saw, or a radial arm saw with an 8 foot reach,like the ones at HD or Lowes.
I go by the “feel” of the rip fence to judge the overall quality of a table saw. If it is sturdy, doesnt rock, move or slip, and is easy to attach straight, generally the rest of the saw should be of like quality.
Believe it or not, that isn’t a joke. Years ago some friends & I stopped in a place in Cripple Creek Colorado and asked for a burger & a Coke. The waitress didn’t know what Coke was. Felt like I’d dropped into the Twilight Zone. Sounds like a bad joke, but there was an actual explanation – all her life, everyone just called everything pop. Didn’t matter the brand, it was all “pop.”
I have been using a Ridgid 10" table saw for 4 years now (about $400 at Home Depot) and it is an excellent piece of equipment for your workshop. I would recommend that you have the masonite sheets cut into two sheets at the lumber yard so it will be easier to handle when cutting. I rarely bring full sheets of any 4x8 material unless I need the full sheet. Table saws are dangerous but are lifesavers when used properly. Mysaw is wired for 220 as it draws about 6 amps vs. 20 amps on 120. I have also built furniture with this saw as it can make very clean and accurate cuts. This saw has a locking caster base with it and I can move it around in my shop to accomodate various sizes of material.
I also have a Ridgid 10" table saw. It works great. I’ve used it primarily for ripping 1X pine lumber for my bench work. I’ve used a long straight edge and my circular saw to rip 4 x 8 sheets of hard board and 1/2" plywood since I only had to make 1 or 2 cuts in each sheet. Woodworking friends have told me it’s safer to rip the 4 x 8 sheet into manageable size pieces with a circular saw and then cut it into small pieces on the table saw. Doing the initial cuts with the circular saw has the added advantage that it can be done in a location where the saw dust produced is not as much of a problem, e.g., outside or in a garage. I would not trust anyone at Lowes or Home Depot to cut the sheet accurately. Also good luck finding someone in the store who even knows how to do it. You could have them do one rip cut to reduce the 4 x 8 sheet to 2 pieces that would be easier to transport.
In any case, when using any power tools turning at high RPM, wear hearing and eye protection and always use the blade guard. Remove all distractions.
Shouldn’t need ear protection on a table saw and being able to hear someone approach is more important, but eye protection on any power tool (yes even a drill) is a good idea. As far as some of the protection devices on a table saw, one of the things I have found is that they give the illusion of being safe and people let down their guard, best defence is to stay focused.
Depends on where you’re using the saw. Outside, the noise has more of a chance to dissipate. In my shop (about 10X10 with all block walls) I definitely use hearing protection.
The upside of the block walls in my shop is that I can run the saw after my wife has gone to bed and it won’t disturb her.
I really enjoy yard saling in our area. Over the course of about 18 months I picked up a Skil table saw, Ryobi radial arm saw, Task Force (made for Lowes by Delta) drill press and band saw all for less than $25 each. From a benchwork perspective, building a model railroad is not like building a swiss watch. A good Skil or Delta table saw should be sufficient.
I have worked around wood power tools most of my life and am very conservative when it comes to safety. If I were replacing my Powermatic table saw today the only brand I would look at is sawstop. These are the ones that will stop the blade without cutting you should your finger touch the blade. Amazing technology but not the cheapest saw. Check them out at sawstop.com
It is amazing to watch them feed a hot dog into the blade and the blade stops almost instantly.
I bought a new Sears contractor-style saw with a cast iron table and wings in 2000. As a woodworker hobbyist, it was a good choice- but then, that’s my OTHER hobby. You might want to save money by looking for ads selling used table saws on Craig’s List in your areas or E-Bay- or even in your local paper. There are often many older guys who give up their woodworking hobby when they start having medical issues, and their garage tools are usually advertised in the local newspaper.
Your newspaper may also have an on-line ad section, making the search easier. A good table saw is a long term tool, if taken care of- they don’t go out of style and you can use them for a variety of modeling tasks. The only caveat is floor space, but put it on base with locking wheels, for ease of use and movement.
The small benchtop models are often too shaky and inaccurate to be of value, despite taking up less space. I use a small benchtop Jet saw with my secondary students for architectural modeling, but find it requires a lot of fussing to give straight cuts.
As a cabinet maker of some thirty five years, you cannot spend too much on a tool. Get the best you can afford and a little more. It will pay off.
As to the ripping of narrow splines: first rip the sheet into three pieces 15 7/8 wide and then make your narrow cuts out of those. If you try to make all the cuts off one edge there is a high likelyhood that they will become crooked. This will make them nearly impossible to use.
As a woodworker for over 30 years, I have a bit of practice with a table saw. If you need a tool that will be rarely used or for a non vital job, get the cheapest. If accuracy and longevity of the tool are important, get the best that you need. The magic word being “need”.
A cheap table saw can do much rought work, but don’t expect it to be accurate enough for cabinetry work.
Whether you have a cheap or an expensive saw, the blade is crutial for safe and easy cutting. Cheap and wrong type of blades are dangerous and not really cheap in the long run due to the results they generate.
A second hand saw can be a great buy. Mine was bought second hand 30 years ago and with some re-furbishing and maintenance over the years, still performs wonderfully.
I have tools from most major manufacturers and they are all relatively decent. So need, features, price, warranty were the chosing factors, not brand names.
I will add another vote to those of Siver Pilot, Batman and Ironrooster, take a look at a Radial Arm saw. The R. A. S. is a VERY versatile tool, it will do almost everything that a table saw will do, and some things that a table saw wont. It will do miter cuts longer than even a sliding miter saw will. Reconfiguring a RAS is very quick for most job changes.
I have 2 table saws, a large cast iron tabled one, and a smaller aluminum tabled one, a 12" compound miter saw, and a Radial Arm Saw, the Radial Arm has likely gotten more use than the other 3 combined. I don’t regret buying any of them, but if I had to choose just ONE, the RA would be the keeper.
“Follow the link and read the reviews on this saw. My first thought when I saw the photo was it can’t be very stable…maybe if you draped 2 or 3 - 50 pound bags of sand across the leg braces…if you don’t have a friend with a good table saw to rip the splines for you, spend the money and buy a quality tool that will outlast you. You won’t regret the decision to do so.”
Don Z.
Don’t believe everything you read on a website or message board I went to my local Lowes today and saw this exact same table saw. My buddy grabbed the saw and tried pushing it from side to side and the guy looked at us like he had three heads. that thing was as stable as a rock he liked it so much he bought one.
