P2K PA1 I have has provision for plug-in. Anyone have a recommendation for a decoder? I tried a TCS DP5X (had one on hand)-physically wouldn’t fit. DP5X interferred with car body although it obviously worked OK.
Appreciate any suggestions,
Jon [8D]
I’m assuming HO scale here? Easiest thing is to pull the circuit board and hard wire a decoder, if you like TCS use a T1, for low cost generic decoders I liek NCE D13SRJ’s. I did some P2K E units with them in this manner, although I did not actually remove the circuit board. The E unit has more interior room so I put the decoder up front behind the cab and ran the wires back along the channel and soldered the decoder wires to the appropriate wires after I removed them fromt he clips on the circuit board. Should the owner wi***o completely remove DCC, it will be an easy job to cut the solder joints and clip the wires back where they came from on the P2k circuit board. I have an FA/FB set to do for myself and since I know I will never return to DC I will just remove the board for good, plenty of room there for a T1 or D13SRJ.
–Randy
First, which run of PA is this? The first ones produced will draw up to 4 amps on start up. The club toasted several decoders before we realized this. Life-like offered free replacement motors for a while, fat chance now… If it is one of these it will need to be remotored or have a high current decoder (like G-scale).
Aside from that problem, I prefer to simply cut out the existing circuit board and replace it with a sheet of sytrene (or just file it clean) and mount a stand alone decoder there.
Remember the lamps are 1.5V.
DH163L0
Not an easy job to fit a DH163L0 int he PA’s or E units, they don’t have the right style circuit board to allow the DH163L0 to directly attach.
Very easy to switch out the single bulb for a golden white LED and 1K resistor. If there’s a Mars light, a replacement 1.5v bulb and resistor plus the Marsl ight effect in the decoder will yield a much nicer Mars light than the wierd 2-filament LL bulb and circuit.
–Randy
Guess it’s not first run. Before carbody interference I ran it with the TCS DP5X without problem. Obviously I should draw on everyone’s experience and do it right(determine current draw). I’ve got several older locos to install decoders in and will do an amp draw determination before toasting decoders.
Hmm, interesting your point about cutting out the existing cicuit board and mounting a stand alone decoder there. This must be the MRR/Decoder equivalent of cutting the Gordian knot. [tup] [tup] [tup]
Thanks TexZephyr, Randy, nfmisso!! [8D]
Jon