http://www.antiquesnavigator.com/pd-527677/retired-disney-ho-main-street-station-monorail-playset.htmlI have had a lot of success making plastic parts with Instamorph; a plastic pellet product immersed in hot water then forming it to whatever you would like. They do NOT however make a product that produces a clear end result. I have two parts of a clear canopy (shown on opposite ends of the model in the picture) that I would like to recreate but need two more. Some places charge too much money, 3D printing is also quite expensive and some places have a minimum of 10+ units when I only need 2. Is there any place that I can get this done or help on how to obtain products to do it myself?
Steverg,
I would use clear Acetate. Grafix Clear Craft Plastic. It is .020 thick and crystal clear, just like glass. Easy to cut, scribe and snap or scissors. Is bendable. I got some over a yr. ago and since then have replaced all the window glazing on all structures and continue to do so on any structure…it is really clear and easy to work with. I use a Jewlers cement to secure or epoxy will work, but the Jewlers is also crystal clear. G-S Hypo Cement.
The Grafix should be available at Hobby Lobby, Micheals, Jo-Ann fabrics and some others. You can check on line for Grafix product distributors near You. I believe it will work great for that Model.
The Acetate:
The cement I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQDX86/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Frank, how does that acetate stand up over time? Back in the '50s and '60s, I used clear acetate for windows in pretty-well everything (cellophane was another popular option in those days).
However, over time, all of the acetate yellowed badly, and I was quite relieved when clear styrene became readily available. I have styrene “glass” in structures that have now been around much longer than those that had yellowed-acetate windows, and there’s no sign of yellowing at all. Perhaps the stuff which you’re using has a different chemical make-up than that of the older stuff with which I was familiar?
Wayne
Wayne,
As far as I know it is a lot different than the older kind and will not yellow over time. I have only been using it for the last couple of yrs. though. But I can tell You it is a lot clearer than the older kind. On some buildings with the store fronts that I have ( still putting all the details inside) there is a mixture of Ngineering .005’’ real glass and a store front with the Grafix .020’’ Acetate and it’s very hard to tell the difference between the two. Cutting it sure is a breeze, compared to the glass. Which I have not done successfully…even with an expensive diamond oil glass cutter. I like it…aside from that, even if it did yellow over time, I know I more than likely won’t be around anyway![swg] Mel said He got some and tried it and told Me He likes it…I believe He was using it for window glazing in passenger cars. Every building I build now, I use that instead of the supplied Acrylic windows. I have even went so far as to replace some existing buildings with it and it’s like night & day with the clarity. I also know some guys from the FSM site who also use it…great for doll houses.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Hmmmm, the description calls this plastic. If it were acetate would it not be called that? I’m just curious what it actually is.
Thanks
Maxman,
As far as I know there is more than one type of Acetate. Film and sheet are two different types of Acetate plastic. I believe there is some confusion with the types. Like Acetate Cellulose Film/Acetate Plastic sheet, I use the sheet which has different chemical ingredients and is not rigid like styrene plastic or clear Acrylic plastic. This is crystal clear like glass:
http://www.grafixplastics.com/acetate_what.asp
All I care about is the tremendous difference in clarity for use in Modeling for windows,windshields, etc. and it’s very easy to use.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank