Wow…finding now more than ever that model railroading has entered the world of CHEAP…like so much of the other grossly overpriced stuff we buy. I have a used Kato SD45 that had been custom painted in Helm Leasing by a previous owner. I intend/intended to repaint it in Reading. Last night I removed the body components and in standing with my 35 year practice of submerging the parts in DOT 3 brake fluid I hoped to remove the paint. 10 hours later I found the walkway and railing assembly crumbled like a bunch of crackers. This is a new one for me. Old Altas, Athearn Blue box, even Bachmann haven’t given me problems.
The new stuff is so fragile. I’m afraid to take my air eraser or even sneeze around this engine and other new equipment I want to repaint…I might blow the pieces all over Nevada.
Any ideas on striping paint without destroying parts?
Mark
Actually there’s an article on-line specifically about stripping paint from Kato locomotives (maybe you saw it). Summary - the legendary 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, and lots of scrubbing (via a motor-tool - that is the “hook” of the article).
One odd statement - “I accidentally left shells soaking in alcohol for over a year” - unless he sealed that bowl up air-tight he didn’t, as you can almost watch the alcohol evaporate from an open bowl…
Interesting. My Kato SD-40 was decorated in Milwaukee road, a dip in 90% Alcohol solved that and my GP35 was originally done in SP and a media blaster stripped that no problem. Is Kato using a different plastic now? [^o)]
I’ve only ever heard of 1 instance of a Kato shell crumbling, we actually melting, when a friend of mine tossed 6 GP35 shells in Chameleon, sealed them in a container, then forgot about them for 6 months. Kinda turned into a primordial goo.[:O]
I have seen brake fluid make shells brittle after a soak of like, 2 days or more. Athearn shells at that
BTW, what I am using now is 3 quarts of 95% isopropyl alcohol (I’ve only ever found it at Safeway Grocery Chain) and 1 quart Dot 3 brake fluid. Closest thing to Chameleon I’ve ever found!
I stopped using brake fluid after one of my friends had a couple of very expensive loco shells crumble after being soaked in it for a while. Since then all I’ve used on plastic loco and car bodies is 91% alcohol. It works very well for me. There’s usually a little paint left in details like vents and such but a quick scrub with a toothbrush quickly takes care of that.
In hindsight, it’s hard to account for this reaction. I just finished two Bachmann GP35’s that were in the fluid with the SD45…they were in the stuff for about 24 hrs. I blew away dried residual paint from them with my air eraser…no problem on those two. I am wondering if Kato is using a less tolerant plastic than the other manufacturers. I’ve had no luck with 91% alcohol which is why I’ve stuck with DOT 3. I use 91% to further clean drive parts after ultrasonic cleaning.
I’m planning on trying denatured alcohol that you get from Lowe’s or Home Depot and see if that works.
Mark
I reemoved paint on a couple of cars a few years ago and the Brake Fluid left the plastic carbodys brittle and very fragile. I have since been using Pine Sol straight from the bottle and scrub with an old toothbrush. Going to try Alcohol next time.