Removing CA stains?

Hi all,

Below is a photo of the latest addition to my HOn3 rolling stock roster - built from a LaBelle kit:

As you can tell, I used a touch too much CA on the window glazing. Short of cutting it out and doing it again, is there a way to remove the white stains?

Thanks in advance,

tbdanny

Just last night, when I was working on a Kadee car kit, I developed CA stains. The thing I did there was to take a microbrush, and semi-drybrush some fresh paint onto the stain. I have one of several ideas for you, and I would recommend testing on some scrap pieces before you do it on the kit because I have no idea what might happen. 1) Try to paint some clear product like dulcoat (I dont know if it’s clear or not) or some glazing over the CA. 2) Try to wash the CA with some alcohol and scrape it off with an Xacto knife. 3) make the windows glazed and make it like a parlor or private car. Thats all I have for now, and good luck.

Hi,

Sorry about what happened to you. This looks severe, so the wet sanding method would likely be more effort than replacing the glaze. IMHO, you are better off removing the strip and installing a fresh one. Since it appears that you used a clear styrene or acrylic strip, simply cut one out that stretches just above and below your windows so that you can apply the adhesive on those areas. Did you use liquid CA or a traditional in-the-tube “gel-type” of CA?

Securing glazing was a bit of a pain for me as well, until a friend of mine suggested that I use toothpicks whenever I’m applying adhesives on tight areas. A bit tedious but it works.

For this type of application, I avoid CA and use a gel adhesive (non-CA).

I’ve read that CA will almost always fog window glaze made from any kind of plastic. When using plastic window glazing, I cut the glaze a little bigger than the window opening and use MEK applied with a micro brush. I’ve quit using the traditional liquid cements because I can buy almost 5 times the amount of MEK for the same cost. As with ANY solvent material, ALWAYS use in adequate ventilation.

Replace the glazing, using minute amounts of Canopy Glue which adheres to plastic and wood and dries clear.

Mark

As Mark suggests, the canopy glue should be a good choice for a wood model. Another option would be contact cement. For styrene models, use clear styrene (not acetate) for window material and regular liquid solvent-type styrene cement, applied sparingly.

Another method for your car would be to cut the “glass” material oversize, then cement wooden strips of similar thickness to the inside of the car, around the perimeter of the area where the “glass” will be installed. After the glue dries and the window material has been set in place, add wider strips onto those already in place, overlapping the “glass” and trapping it in place.

I’m not familiar with the use of ca with wood, as I no longer build wood models. However, I find ca to be of limited use in other building projects, as it seems less than permanent if there’s no mechanical “fit” between the mating parts.

Wayne

Hi all,

Thanks for the advice. I think I’ll try cleaning the CA off with alcohol first, and failing that, the glazing has a date with an Xacto knife. That’ll be a bit tricky, as the clear stip covered the entire inside of the car wall. I’ll post photos when the repairs are done.

Thanks again,

tbdanny

Remove the glazing as best you can and then use canopy glue, Microscale’s Kristal Klear or Aleene’s Tacky Glue, all of which are water soluable and won’t attack the glazing.

CA will always etch plastic. Almost any water soluble glue will work, or clear latex caulk works also.

As Jay said, use Canopy Glue or Micro Kristal Kleer, but if some material oozes out on the glazing it can be removed. Wait a few minutes then use a toothpick to gently rub the ooze. It helps to have a bit of partially dried glue on the end of the toothpick. Rub the toothpick across the excess glue, it should pick up the excess, but may leave a thin film. Remove the excess on a paper towel and rub some more. The film will start to roll upon the end of the toothpick.

If the ooze material is left on the glazing, it will dry clear, but will also be visible on the glass.

Nail Polish remover does remove CA and residue on certain surfaces.