I have laid some flex track and glued it down with clear vinyl adhesive. I need to remove a section to add in a turnout. It is immovable - any suggestions on how to remove without tearing apart the cork roadbed and track?
Try a very sharp, very thin paring knife. In fact, one of those cheap plastic black-handled steak knives, the ones with the laser-cut sharp pike’s teeth might work well. You might need to start off a shallow slit with a carpet cutter or razor knife/utility knife, and then keep working at the slit until you can get the entire blade throug the compound and out the other side, Then, with upward pressure on the leading edge, taking some pains to avoid snagging the ties too much, start sawing. Then, when you have enough free, use a Dremel type tool with a small thin cut-off blade to sever the ties and rails.
Crandell
Heating will help some too, as you do when removing wallpaper to help break the glue bond.
This is one reason I still use nails/tacks.
Richard
I agree with the sharp knife trick. I glue my track doew with lates adhesive ckaulk, It is easy to remove with just a putty knife. You might try this method next time. A friend of mine just uses nails to hold the track in place until he ballats it. The ballast holds the track secure. When the ballast is dry, he removes the nails. It works very well.
If you prefer to glue down your track first, switch to DAP Alex Plus with silicone. It dries softer and rubberier/more rubbery? than acrylic latex caulks, and it is very easy to separate the tracks from it later. Getting a blade through it is literally like slicing cake. Better for sound deadening than the acrylic latex caulk with no silicone, too.
Crandell
I doubt that you will need to save a 9 inch section of track and roadbed.
Cut the rails / track with a cut-off disk in a Dremel tool. Use a razor saw to cut the track / ties and roadbed. Then just pry out the section.
Clean and level the area, put down new cork and then your turnout.
And a work of caution if you do plan to slice/ saw the track section. Do be quite aware of the force needed when doing this. If something slips and lets go, just make sure it’s not one of your fingers. I would do as sugested and cut the rails and rip it out. Replace the cork if needed.
If glueing track instead of spiking/ nailing, use DAP Alex Plus. removal is as easy as slipping a sharp, thin putty knife under the ties. Many other glue/ adhesives are just too aggressive and bond too well, as you are finding out.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. On most other sections of the layout I just spiked the track down. This adhesive is too strong when you want to make changes.
I use Loctite adhesive caulk for the road bed and the track and 90% alcohol works great to break the bond if necessary. It might work for you as well. pour a little bit on and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the adhesive then pry up the track.
It sounds like you used translucent Phenoseal, it is a little to strong and very expensive compared to the DAP Alex Plus. You could use the clear or as some use , the gray which helps w hiding the roadbed when ballasting.