I recently purchased a BLI Paragon 2 New York Central Pacific. I need to change it to CB&Q.
Questions -
Thanks in advance!
I haven’t done a BLI steam engine, but I did do that to a diesel - removing the Great Northern lettering to reletter it for Lake Superior Terminal & Transfer (railroad partly owned by GN, same paint scheme as GN into the early eighties). I just used a pencil eraser and Walthers Solvaset. Work slowly, don’t push too hard.
You might try contacting BLI, they might have undec shells available.
I assume BL1’s paint and lettering is similar to other manufacturers these days? I’ve had great results using the finest sandpaper that can be found within reason, and take time to slowly remove the lettering using a piece that fits nicely on your finger. The lettering should be raised and you should be able to feel the bump as you sand, and no bump as it smooths out. It will leave a ghost image only if you stop sanding…which can be a cool weathering technique too.
Folding up the paper to use only a corner to get the tough spots, I’ve also finished up around rivets and creases using a hobby knife…gently to pick off the lettering.
It won’t remove the body paint if care is taken, but it’s impossible not to change the sheen.
Since you weather your equipment, I’d think sheen difference wouldn’t be a problem.
I too haven’t removed BLI lettering, but did likewise on other types of cars. You could use rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth and gently dab it. Another option is using the non-sharp part of a hobby knife. This option also requires going very slowly to void scratching the car.
I have had good success on Bachmann tenders using Goo Gone. There was some ghosting but the new lettering masked it well.
CN Charlie
BLI tender by Bear, on Flickr
Gidday Mark, on this BLI tender I used an ink eraser and a LOT of elbow grease! I’m not sure how this photo will reproduce, (click on it to enlarge it) but you should be able to see the area, which I masked off before I started, where the lettering was. As already mentioned, weathering should suitably disguise the area, which is what I intend to do when I gain some confidence in my abilities.
Good luck, have Fun,
Cheers, the Bear.[:)]
HOW DARE YOU DO THAT TO A PIECE OF PRR (prostrating myself in the direction of Altoona) EQUIPMENT !?
You can use fine-grit sandpaper instead of an eraser; I’d still use a little Solvaset. Since it’s a steam engine, if there is some ghosting, it wouldn’t be that hard to just spray the whole thing black to cover it all up. However, if you’re careful, you won’t have to. Not a BLI engine (it’s and old Walthers) but I removed the lettering from this black Wabash engine and added NYC decals to it.
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289588.aspx
(Sorry, don’t know why links within the kalmbach site never seem to work…)
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289588.aspx
(Sorry, don’t know why links within the kalmbach site never seem to work…)
I think it depends on how you hold your mouth!!!
[:)]
Bear, Stix, those models look great! You’ve encouraged me to give it a shot.
P.S.: I’m blaming youse guys (fake Jersey accent there) if it don’t come out good!
I’ve also used 90% alcohol dabbed onto the lettering first to help soften it. Only recommended if the lettering is big enough, so it can be applied without touching the black body paint. Especially useful if the lettering paint happens to be pretty thick and it will take all day to sand/scrape off. The alcohol will dry, and the paint seems to come off better.
I tried to remove the NEW YORK CENTRAL lettering from a BLI tender, but discovered that my usual paint remover also attacked the plastic, rendering it as garbage (I crushed it in my hand, before tossing it in the garbage). I did get an unlettered replacement tender from BLI, and will be re-lettering it as a TH&B locomotive (the TH&B bought two NYC 4-6-4s)…but also had two 2-8-4s built for the TH&B (quite different in appearance from the Pere Marquette 2-8-4s).
Wayne