Removing Lettering of Pre-Lettered Cars

Hi there

I recall reading a tip in MR some years ago about removing lettering on pre-lettered cars but can’t recall what it was.

What I do remember was that the tip proved very successful so I’m hoping someone here may be able to assist.

I have tried air-brush cleaner but to no avail.

Many thanks in advance for your replies

cheers

bagman

I’ve had good success with 90% isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Wet the lettering really well and then scrub with the q-tip.

I’ve also used an eraser, just a good ole pencil top red eraser, it will take some of the paint off with it but I expect you’re going to repaint it anyway correct?

Thank you for the quick response.

I’ll certainly try your suggestion.

Using the power of Google, I found a tip in MR’s Paint Shop, Sep 1997.

Suggestion there was to use decal setting solution which, now that I recall, I believe I used previoulsy.

In any event will try both methods

Thanks again

I used “Joe’s Decal and Detail Remover”, from Joe’s Model Trains…picked it up from Walthers and it works terrifically, especially is tight spots. Highly recommended.

I need to remove the lettering on the tender of my Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 so I can letter it for my own road name. I don’t know if it’s a decal or painted on. Has anyone had success removing lettering on Bachmann steam engines?

TIA

Anything pad printed can be removed by the 90% ISO I buy Busch’s cop cars and others vehicles and usually strip them very easily to make my fictional city’s name.

Welcome and I’m glad we could help.

The Bachmann locos are pad printed, and the paint USUALLY comes off pretty easily with alcohol…but theres an exception to every rule, I have had trouble getting the lettering to come off some Bachmann products [locos and rolling stock].

Since I always repaint the item I’m removing the lettering from I don’t worry about taking a little paint off with the lettering. If I’m having trouble with the alcohol or eraser method I use paint thinner— SPARINGLY!!—…on a Q-TIP to gently scrub the lettering off, I’ve also tried WD40 and GOO Gone…didn’t have a lot of success with either.

I’ve also used 600 grit sandpaper to lightly sand off letters and numbers…this isn’t a very good way to do it because any adjacent surface detail may be damaged or lost, but I’ve found that on smooth surfaces [such as under the windows on steamers] it can work, you just have be very careful and work at it slowly.

I’d recommend trying the alcohol first, then if it doesn’t do a satisfactory job,maybe ask your LHS guy about some decal remover.

Can’t vouch for this personally, but someone here who I recall respecting said he takes letters off Bachmans with his fingernail.

YMMV.

Thanks all,

I’ll start with fingernails and work up to thr ISOpro

Alan J

I used an x-acto blade to remove the lettering on some of my Walthers Budd cars. All I did was gently scratch at the lettering–the cars were going to be relettered for PC (black letterboards, white lettering) so I wasn’t too concerned about any “mistakes.”

Some of Bachmann’s pad printing is easily removed–the lettering on one of my F40s has rubbed off simply by handling the unit.

I use the fiberglass brush that comes with a tool offered by MicroMark and PBL that is sold as a weathering tool.

Included are two fiberglass brushes, one brass brush and one stainless steel brush.

Being careful, I was able to remove some extraneous lettering and loco road numbers from two Atlas Diesels, with very little noticeable damage to the paint underneath. I weather pretty much everything that goes on my railroad so a little bit of paint removal will easily be covered over by Dullcote (to flatten the shine) and weathering (airbrush, chalks, Bragdon powerders, etc.).

If you use the fiberglass brush, some of the fibers will fall out onto your workbench. DO NOT use your hand to brush debris off your workbench subsequently. These little bristles are extremely sharp; the WILL end up as slivers in your hand. They are painful, and it is very difficult to locate where the bristle is buried as they are transparent and very difficult to see.

It is Walther’s Solvaset decal setting solution. The user gently scrubbed with a Q tip. He also mentions if you mask off and paint, don’t worry if the color is not an exact match. Prototype railroads reletttered and renumbered cars in this manner quite a lot. Use flat finish after.

rich