Can Anyone help with any info on repainting f3s. I recently acquired a pair of lionel NYC 2344s. I got them cheap, someone repained the shells. First red and then green and yellow on top of the red. It seems that someone before me tried to remove the paint with paint thinner as the dummy unit warped and the shell is a bit soft. With much patience and a lot of time I removed the paint with a mini screwdirver set. After the paint was all off of both of the units, I heated the dummy and made it straight. I hit them with a scotch brite and washed them with some soap and water. I already purchased the paint, can anyone tell me anything else I can do in order to assure that the paint will stick properly. Thank You in advance
I did three F3 shells. Make sure they are clean then clean again. Then spray primer and let dry before you paint.
Thanks for the response. Can you recomend any primer in particular? Thanks Again
Hi NYCPA, as I sit here with my coffee in my K-Line coffee mug, maybe I can offer some help some. Probably 60%-75% of my stuff has been repainted.
First off, you can use either automobile brake fluid or brand name PineSol to remove old paint. PineSol might be a safe bet with the older Lionel shells. The plastic they used then was a different plastic than is used today, and is very sensitive to some paint removers (as your warped shells show). One you have removed your paint, BE SURE to wa***he shells in clean warm soapy dishwater. Scrub the shells down good and rinse them.
Now I’ve always been the odd-duck in any group… if you are using an airbrush, fine. I use spray paint.
•Use a plastic safe spray paint. By my experience, the following all work: Krylon Living Color (water latex base), Sherwin-Williams Color Touch (also NYBCO Color Touch), DAP Touch 'nTone, Proven Brands Enamel, Plasti-Kote Odds ‘n’ Ends, DAP Spray 'n Go, and Krylon Short Cuts. Rustoleum has just come out with a line of plastic safe spray paint too. I most use the Krylon Short Cuts, the DAP Spray 'n Go and the Color Touch.
•You can use a non-plastic freindly color like Rustoleum for a final coat, BUT you MUST use a plastic safe primer and cover the ENTIRE shell inside and out first.
•Your primers are a little more forgiving than regular color. Meaning you can build up the paint a bit more with out it showing. The nice thing about the older (pre-prototypical shells) is that the details, rivets etc. were usually exaggerated, you you don’t have to worry about losing them in the process of adding mutiple coats. I’m sure this is why the HO guys use airbrushes (airbrushes allow more regulated flow of paint). The older Lionel bakelite plastic shells don’t take paint as well so you’ll want to build up the primer slowly. If the shell is molded in a light color, you may want to use a gray primer to “light proof” the shell. Otherwise, a white primer will allow fewer coats of the final color, especially if it’s a light color
Hello
First let me say that I hope you have an enjoyable experience in repainting those engines. Twenty years ago when when I started I used scalecoat paint remover sold by
Wm K Walthers, at the present they sold out. Go to www.micromark.com they are advertising another brand
Thanks for the info guys. I didn’t get any primer with the paint but I ordered it after reading the posts. The box Idea is really cool and I’m going to try it. I’m actually not sure what brand of decals they are. I got them from Olsen’s Toy Train Parts. I also got the paint from them. I’m waiting on the primer. Anyone interested in pics I’ll e-mail before and afters(let me know). The micromark web site has a lot of cool stuff too. Thanks again guys.