Hi everyone:
I asked this question a while ago but I’m going to bring the subject up again because I just got a PM asking how I had solved the problem. I haven’t. All I could offer was theory.
Has any company ever made replacement hand rails for the P2K switchers that suffered so badly from distortion?
Second question: If you have replaced the warped hand rails how did you do it?
This is the problem that I am referring to:
Thanks
Dave
Hi Dave,
I have a few P2K’s, but no switchers, so I have no idea if they ever issued replacements, but, I have fashioned my own railings with Tichy TG phosphor bronze wire, as they sell many different sizes, and I’m sure you know all about them. It’s nice and rigid.
Just a suggestion.
Mike
Hi Mike:
Yes, I have spent my fair share on Tichy phosphor bronze wire.
What I suggested to the person who PM’d me was this:
Take the hand rails off the shell.
Cut the mounting brackets out by cutting through the hand rail, not the bracket.
Trim the remaining hand rail stubs off of the brackets so you have a flat surface to work with.
Use a needle or a pin to mark the center of the brackets where the hand rail goes through and then drill a hole through the brackets. Using a smaller diameter wire than the original molded rails will make the drilling easier and make the hand rails look better.
Slide the cored brackets on to the wire and then bend the wire to fit.
CA the brackets back into their original locations, adjust the wire as necessary and then CA the wire to the brackets.
Paint the hand rails and then spray a little Dullcote on the shell to dull the CA. Remember to mask the cab windows.
Does that sound workable? I think so, but I want to know how others have solved the problem.
I also suggested using steam engine hand rail stanchions instead of fiddling with the original brackets but personally I wouldn’t find the appearance to be acceptable.
Dave
That seems like a good plan to me. Although I must admit, in my case, fideling with the tiny original hand rail mounts would be a daunting task. Time to get out the #7 Optivisor lense!
On other projects, such as recent tank car projects, I have also used the metal Athearn hand rail materials, and Smokey Valley, but they weren’t all exactly “prototype” builds, but looked good to me!
I have broken or distorted my share of the P2K railings while handling the locos, over the years, but have always managed to repair them.
Mike.
I don’t have any Proto diesels, but I’ll second the suggestion about phosphor bronze wire. Detail Associates offers formed stainless steel eyebolts which could be used for the supports. I form my own using Detail Associates soft brass wire.
While I use them for the corner support of roofwalk grab irons, they allow the parts to be soldered together:
For this Athearn switcher, I used Detail Associates plastic eyebolts and a length of music wire:
Because you’re more likely to pick up a switcher by the frame, rather than the hood, there’s not too much worry that you’ll break the plastic eyebolts.
I’m not sure about P2K road switchers, but I used the stock plastic stanchions on these Atlas diesels, and replaced the handrail portions with music wire:
Wayne
Maybe use lift rings instead of the original brackets, just thread wire through and lock in place with CA
some possibilities
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/300-5085
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/190-541
That’s just what I do, just like what Wayne shows in a post above yours.
Thanks !
Mike.
I think you guys are right. Using eye bolts or lift rings would be far easier than trying to core the existing stanchions, and there really isn’t any outstanding detail on the originals which deserves to be preserved.
I think I over thought the problem.
Thanks
Dave
Try sending this guy an email. http://www.smokeyvalley.com/
Thanks Jim
I will send him an e-mail.
Dave