I got a quote from a guy at fshobby.com (Flying Scottsman Hobbies) who would sell 1,000 Intermountain wheelsets for $455.00, including shipping, which works out to about $5.40 per 12 wheelsets. Their normal price is $49.99 for 100 wheelsets. Trainquest.com also sells 100 wheelsets for $49.99. I found a site called modeltrainstuff.com that sells Proto 2000 wheelsets for $3.99 which is half of the list price. Therefore, with these quotes, the Intermountains work out to about 45 cents per car more than the Proto’s. For a roster of 400 cars, Intermountains would cost $720.00, the Protos would cost $533.00. Bottom-line: It may be worth the additional $187.00 for the Intermountain wheelsets. Heck…when you’re spending hundreds…what’s another couple of hundred?
I would go with the P2K becuase i use P2K on all of my cars that i regulay run and i’ve never needed to clean my track yet and it’s been a year. All my cars have P2K wheels and Kadee couplers.
I totally agree [#ditto] I use Proto 2000 on all of my rolling stock. The IM wheels are blackened and don’t have the “shinny” prototypical wheel tread.
I thought Tony’s cleaning instructions suggest NOT to use Goo Gone because it leaves an oily coating on the track which will attract more dirt? I have used Laquer Thinner as he suggested, with the windows open to prevent the vapors from killing me and it works fine. If you must use Goo Gone, what I’ve found is that a cleaning afterwards with Rubbing Alcohol will remove the Goo Gone.
I would suggest IMs. Not only do they have metal wheels they have metal axles which will always produce a smoother ride. I’ve had both KD and Proto. The Proto wheelsets I had were poorly manufactured and the axles were out of shape. I thought this was a one time problem but I’ve seen this more than once. I’ve never had an issue with IMs. If you buy them in bulk you will save lots of cash. Don’t buy them in the smaller packs … 100 axles for $50 is probably the best price I’ve seen.
I use all three types on my railroad and the only ones that have caused me trouble is the Kadee…and then only in certain situations…but I also have the Tony’s Train Exchange Track Cleaner used with 90% Alcohol…but the other day several guys from Danville Ky were here looking at my monster…I run Digitrax Dcc…my engines were loping around the track if they would make it at all…one of them laughed and said that they would let me in on a little secret if I did not tell the world…about clean track…they said to go to the garage and get some Automatic Transmission Fluid and put tiny drops on the track and that it would make my trains run better and the Sounttraxx modules would sound better…I laughed and asked what type Ford or GM…either one they said…so I did try it…lo and behold it worked…my trains run better than ever and the sounds are wonderful…I have not cleaned my track in over three months now and am still having great results…I have learned not to laugh at other folks suggestions for one thing…right now I have about 600 cars and all have metal wheel sets…also the Track Cleaning Car is sitting on a siding not being used…
Hi Jerry,
I’ve heard that Wahl clipper oil used very sparingly will do the same thing but I’ve not heard of using xmission oil. Thanks for the info.[;)]
Interesting subject. I love Kadee cars and couplers. I hate Kadee wheels. I don’t like them on Kadee cars, they are not free rolling but actually put a drag on the cars, and the fellow who gave the measurements may well have explained why. I’m with those who say InterMountains are the best, essentially becase they ARE the best. I have not had any problems with LLK’s and I don’t bother to change them out on my P2K cars, but I think it’s silly not to get the best wheels if your cars are not rolling as they should. After all, it is about running trains, isn’t it?
I’d like some clarification on your suggestion to put small drops of transmission fluid on the track. Could you be a little more specific like…do you put drops every 12 inches or so or more than that. Also, do you let your rolling stock spread it around or did you spread it with a rag? I’ll try anything once, especially if it is not illegal, but could use a little more specifics. It sounds like you’re saying the transmission fluid cleaned the track and improved electrical contact. How about the fluid attracting more dust…did it?
For Rivarossi & IHC passenger cars, IHC makes a 31" replacement metal wheelset that, although not prototypical size, works great without removing any brake shoes or parts thereof. They’re usually packaged in a plastic bag for about $32 for 36 wheelsets.
I believe any metal wheel is better than plastic one. Going to the expense and trouble to replace the stock plastic wheels with metal improves the performance of the rolling stock. I also like the sound. With that said I have noticed better rolling characteristics when the replacement wheels sets have a melt axle placed in a plastic side frame, Intermountain. Some of the old metal trucks now work better since I replaced the wheel sets with ones with plastic axles and metal wheels, Proto 2000. It seems that dissimilar metals have less friction.
I do have a problem with Intermountain trucks that come in their hopper kits. Some of them will not sit flat when assembled and the wheels in place. Three of the four wheels will touch the rail and forth may be off the rail be a hair to a fraction of an inch. Does anyone have a suggestion to cure this problem?
A slight fray in the thread, here, if I may: I’ve been using Kadee wheels for a good many years before there were other choices. The black coating wears off with enough mileage, and you have a shiny tread, just like prototype cars, and for the same reason.
Yes, I’ve also tried P2K, Intermountain, NW Shortline and a buncha others, including LBF’s stock sintered metal. All of 'em are better than plastic, some are better than others. I can’t honestly say there’s enough difference to cleave to only one unto death.
BUT – here’s where I take a turn off this thread – My rails have been a LOT cleaner since I STOPPED using Goo-Gone. This stuff left a continuing layer of goo (ironically enough) on the rails that attracted more dirt. I am now cleaning wheels and track with 91% denatured alcohol. No residue.
I know, this will start another war – like Wahl Clipper Oil a decade or so ago.
Summary: Metal wheels, good, Plastic wheels, bad. Goo-gone, not my choice.
I have been useing a compination of Jay Bee, Proto 2000 and Kadee mertal wheels for the last 5 years. I also use Wahls clipper oil very sparingly on my lay out, I have approximately 150 feet of main line which I only clean vigerously once a year. We have a operating session for 4 hours once a month, I only use the Wahls once every couple of months. The layout has not failed me thus far we do use DCC I can run a clean white cloth down the rails for about 30 feet and come up with a light amount of dirt on the rails but not enough to interfear with operations. The trick is in the use of the Wahls, I place the oil on top of the rail for about 1 inch on each track and run a 15 car train through the oil and all over the layout. Thats all it takes. I live in a very dusty climate in Nevada, desert.
I’ve replaced all my plastic wheelsets with Proto 2000 metal ribbed back 33". Most of my freight stock is from Athearn kits, and the fit is perfect after reaming the side frames. I model 1920’s era so ribbed back wheelsets are perfectly prototypical.
I have some MDC Roundhouse 34’ Overton passenger cars, which came with Delrin trucks and wheels. On the advice of my hobby store buddy, I’m leaving them on until I either begin to see tread wear/track dirt, or I start to run them more ( a LOT more). The Delrin is reported to be much harder than the typical plastic wheelset, and rolls like ice in the trucks as purchased. My reamer is a bit tight in the sideframes on these, so I can only assume that MDC runs a little tighter to tolerance.
Mondo,
I have used a lot of LBF wheels in nearly all my rolling stock mainly because of cost. One of the members of the club to which I belong owns a hobby shop and cuts every member a very good discount and right now LBF has the best price, and when you have over 750 carscost is really a issue. I will say that I do use other brands also like Protos in all my McKean and Front Range cars and of course Atlas comes with their own. One problem that I have encountered with most wheels is that they need to be painted to dull their apearence. Nothing looks worse than a nice string of cars with those “chrome” wheels, so I have to take the time to weather the wheels. I like others have found that there is no perfect wheel set for every purpose. I have recently started to replace the wheel sets in my Athearn loco with Northwest Shortline 40" wheels and this has helped greatly.
As far a track cleaning, at our club we have found that by nearly all the members switching to metal wheels and changing the wheels in the Athearn locos that we do not have nearly the problrm with dirty track that we had. The building that we are in is over 100 years old and has no heat or a/c on the floor we are using which is the top floor of a 3 story. For heat in the winter we are using a propane space heater whick has cut down greatly on our winter dirt over when we used kerosene heaters. The summer we still have a dirt issue as the only way to cool the building down is to open the windows and doors. We have tried most ot the methods listed by the other folks who posted replys with little to no luck, but the ATF method sounds cool, As for our way to do it which for us has nearly solved our problems is to remove the cleaning pad from under a track cleaner and replace it with a piece of masonite and just drag it around once in a while. A nothe club told us this and they have gone a far to make a couple of track cleaners out of dummy locos which they run in their loco pool.
I know it is long but there is my answer, hope it helps
I’ve been using Kadee wheelsets - both 33" and 36" - with the coating buffed off for years on our local club RR. No problem on a coating of the rails and they stay cleaned than either plastic or metal wheelsets with the coating left on. I try very hard to avoid Chinese products, much preferring made in the US products like Kadee. I don’t remember I-M’s country of origin, but I know Proto’s are from China. Use of a bearing reamer is sometimes needed to smooth things out but probably only 10-15% of the time. Our club also uses track cleaning cars - usually MDC 2-bay hoppers with a block of masonite underneath dragging rough side down. Minimal drag to the train and max clean.