I have a few of the old Athearn blue box cars which I built from kits when I was in high school, they are equipped with the old NMRA horn type couplers. What is the easiest way to switch these cars over to either McHenry or Kadee couplers and what kind of couplers do I need to purchase?
For my BB cars I use either the #5 or #148 coupler…
For best results I ensure the frame,floor and weight isn’t warp I then drill a 2-56 hole(I use self tapping screws) and use a 2-56 screw to fasten the coupler cover on.
Here’s what the end results will look like.
Larry’s method is more secure, but I just pop off the metal clip, remove the old coupler, install the new #5 or #148, and replace the metal clip. Done.
The clips will pop off on their own volition now and again, but that’s very rare as a percentage of the number of cars I have converted thus.
Jim
Appreciate the assistance…looks like the old Heinz pickle cars are off the shelf and back on the layout…thanks guys
BobL609
The last episode of Cody’s Office shows a set of guides that are designed to allow accurate drilling and threading of the Athearn coupler pockets. Personally I think they unnecessary if you are careful with the drill, but you might find them helpful.
One of the things I do when working on the Athearn cars is to bend the sides of the coupler box cover ever so slightly inward so they grip better. I haven’t installed screws and won’t unless I have a significant problem.
Dave
As others have said, you just pop the lids off the Athearn coupler boxes, dump the horn hooks, and drop in a #5 Kadee and the centering spring. Or a McHenry, or a #145. Kadee’s are the best. I wouldn’t mess with McHenry unless you can buy them for a lot less that the Kadees. Last time I shopped for couplers, the Kadees were the same price as the plastic McHenrys. You will find the the couplers will come out a little bit low. A #6 flat washer under each truck will get the couplers up to the right height.
You need a coupler height gauge, which you can buy or make. Most accidental uncoupling happens cause one coupler is high and the other is low.
Hey Dave!
Good advice on the coupler height gauge! As you said, most of the Athearn BB stock needs to be shimmed at the trucks to get the couplers to the right height.
Here is the coupler height gauge:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm
Here are the washers used to raise the height of the car above the trucks. There are two thicknesses:
http://kadee.com/htmbord/page209.htm
http://kadee.com/htmbord/page208.htm
Dave
I forgot to mention. Another excellent coupler is Walthers Proto Max Coupler.Its the same as the #5 and all metal with a knuckle spring like KD uses.
Bob, besides the washers to get coupler height right you may need couplers with either Raised Or Lower Couplers Heads! Raised couplers are #27, #5 are the centered couplers and (I think but don’t count on it) the lower coupler is #22.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page27.htm
http://kadee.com/htmbord/page22.htm
Cuda Ken
There has been one step left out that stops the metal cover from coming off. Usually it is because it has not engaged the ear fully on plastic box. A standard pair of slip joint pliars can be used to gently squeeze the assembly until you hear the ear click when it is fully engaged. Haven’t had any come apart since I started doing this on each side.
Appreciate the assistance y’all…I had some plastic McHenry’s in the workshop so I used those and since the trucks are the original Athearn’s with real springs I’m going to wait on adjusting the coupler height until I replace either then entire truck assembly or the wheelsets.