How’s it going? I think the group has kicked this subject around a bit, so while looking for some answers for you, I found these 2 threads. They are relating to Athearn locos, but since they are DCC type lighting questions, I think you might benefit from them.
I replaced all my locomotives with Miniatronic’s 1.5 volt grain of rice bulbs with a 370 ohm resistor soldered on one leg of each of the light bulb wires between the bulb and the decoder.
First, I remove the old bulb and drill out the bulb lenses in the locomotive shell using a Kadee 2-56 drill bit in a pin vise. Next, I’ll put some clear silicone sealant in the holes and then feed the bulbs into the lens housing allowing the silicone sealant to dry for a few hours once the bulbs are set in place. Then, I’ll solder and insulate the 370 ohm resistor to one of the two wires of each bulb and then connect them to the appropriate decoder wires. Finally, I put the locomotive shell on carefully so that I don’t pinch any of the wires between the locomotive frame and shell.
Miniatronic bulbs can be found at a good LHS or from an internet model supply vendor such as Loy’s Toy’s or internettrains .com. Resistors can be purchased at any electronic warehouse such as Mouser, Digikey, or Radio Shack.
I actually prefer 3mm (1.5V) 1/4 watt LEDs to incandescent bulbs for headlights. You will need to solder an inline 750 or 1K Ohm resistor to your LED so that it does not blow.
The output from the LEDs is outstanding. Unlike incandescent bulbs, electricity travels through an LED in one direction ONLY so you need to make sure that you have it wired correctly. The common (blue) wire goes to the longer of the two LED leads, called the anode (+). Your white (front) or yellow (rear) wire will go to the short lead, called the cathode (-).
For older diesels and steam, the golden-white LEDs look more prototypical.
I have finished the project! I can’t get the rear lights to work, but the loco has FINALLY been reassembled and in regular service!
Thanks for all your help, I will post some photos eventually.
PS: If any of you have this loco and are trying to get a DCC chip in, I’ll tell you how. I used a T1 decoder placed directly behind the cab on top of the whole assembly. I removed the circut board, that’s the only way the decoder fits. WARNING! You MUST isolate the frame from the circut or you will blow something up!