How do you replace the stanchions on a standard gauge 384E?? the handrail stanchions that is. There are 8 of them total, I am missing 3 of them. I have the new brass stanchions, but, I have no idea how to install them correctly. Anyone know how to do this?? thanks.
You’ll have to remove the railing to replace missing stanchions. Gently pry the tabs away from the inside of the boiler just enough to allow the stanchions to be removed. I use a small jewelers screwdriver to bend the tabs just enough so that I can get a grip on them with needle nose pliers to complete the bending. BE ever so careful but don’t be surprised if a tab or 2 breaks off, especially if the stanchions have been removed at some other time in the past.
Slide the number of stanchions needed on to each railing and align them up to the holes while slipping the 2 ends of the railing into their holes…a tedious job. work from one end to the other. While holding the loose assembly in place flip the boiler over and use the needle nose pliers to bend the two tabs away from each other while tugging them slightly. Use the flat end of the pliers to finish flattening the tabs against the boiler. This should produce snug fitting stanchions. Hopefully none of your reused stanchion tabs break during reinstallation or you have to start again. Again, be as gentle as you possibly can.
The Lionel factory coated all brass pieces with a clear lacquer to maintain their original shine. It’s probably wise to spray any bare brass for this purpose. Also, if I’m not mistaken, all stanchions on Lionel classic era steamers were nickel plated.
Bruce Webster
So, I would have to disconnect the railing from the boiler on one end and remove the stanchions that are in the way, slide the new ones on the railings, place tabs in the holes in boiler and bend them over inside the boiler, then reattach the end of the railing to the boiler. thats all?? how do you remove the motor to get at the insides of the boiler?? there are 2 tabs holding the motor in place, just turn them and out comes motor? thanks.
Other than completely removing the railing, depending on which stanchions need replacing, I think you’ve got the gist of it. I did forget to mention that removing the drivetrain would be necessary to access the tabs on the inside of the boiler. The Bild-A-Loco motor makes this easy. Good Luck
Bruce Webster
Will I break any wires removing the motor assembly?? Like the wire to the headlight, will that break off?? Its all original wiring in the loco. Other than the headlight wire, the rest of the wires are on the motor and do not branch out anywhere to the other parts of the loco?? thanks.
Initially during assembly, the headlight wire (which is soldered to the motor )had to be long enough to attach the other end to the bulb socket while the motor was out of the loco body. So disassembly shouldn’t pose a problem. You’ll have ample wire length to separate the motor from the body enough to access the screw on the back of the bulb socket without breaking the wire. Other than that there are no other wires to break or disconnect.
Bruce Webster
P.S. If this was a Bild-A-Loco motor, which I don’t believe the 384E came with, there would be no headlight wire to disconnect.
Motor will just drop right down with headlight wire still attached?? then just fix and bend back the stanchion tabs, then I am done?? Is one end of the railing not bent into the boiler, because if it bent into the boiler how do I slide the stanchions onto the railing with the bending on them?? stanchions must be put onto straight railing not bent ones. I dunno. thanks.
OK, I finished putting in the new stanchions, it was easy. the headlight wire, you just unscrew a little screw on top of the motor and disconnect it, then the boiler will be free of motor. Then i was able to access the motor and the boiler seperatly. I peeled over the tabs, did not break any. They look good, nice and bright and strong. thanks.