I am working on tuning up my freight cars. Tonight a boxcar landed on my bench with broken stirrup steps.
I am looking at Tichy replacements. The ones on the model are bottom mount. The Tichy units look like they have a tab that would have a hole drilled to receive it. I cant imagine how / where the holes would be drilled so do those tabs get cut off?
If anyone has a picture or two of how they get installed it would be a huge help.
Ok. I like the idea of metal stirrups but same question: how do they install? I just looked at some of the a-line and they also appear to have tabs also
I bend up my own stirrup steps out of wire. I drill a pair of holes vertically into the car side to accept the wire step. Secure the stirrup step with superglue.
I use A-Line when I can find them, but if I run out I use regular office staples. They are cheap, a soft and easily bent metal and have a rectangular cross section.
You either have to drill a hole up into the side of the car from the bottom or glur them to the inside of the side and notch out the frame to fit around them or glue the frame in and then drill between the frame and the car side.
I like the A-Line steps too - all of the cars on the near track above have them. Depending on the car, I either drill directly into the floor, or install a piece of styrene behind the sill and drill mounting holes into that. The method varies based on how much of the step needs to be visible below the car, and sometimes on the thickness of the sill.
If you have the remains of a plastic step on the car side, just drill right behind where the original step was. You may have to adjust the hole spacing a bit to account for the dimensions of the replacement, or re-bend the A-Line step to change its shape.
The A-Line steps are available in three styles, and are easy to install.
I use a draughting compass with two points (rather than one point with a piece of pencil-lead in the other), then set it to match the width of the steps which I wish to use. This allows me to make minute indents to indicate where to drill. I use a #76 drill bit in a pin vise.
Here’s a photo with a couple of the sill steps in place (Click on the photos for an enlarged view)…
For cars with thin sides (too thin to easily and accurately drill) I add a piece of sheet styrene of a suitable thickness, cementing it to the inside of the car, as shown below…
…and cut the car’s floor to accommodate the extra material…
This car is a chopped-up Athearn boxcar, to which I added inset sills, and because the sills are fairly thin, added a block of strip styrene at the location of each sill step. (Ignore my method of securing the weights - I didn’t want them on the car’s floor.)
Here’s one of the eight re-worked cars…lowered roof line (by 1 HO scale foot), with new Viking roof, and Tichy 5-5-5 ends…
Actually, it’s not all that bad…if you had the camera another inch further away from the car’s underbody they probably would have been completely visible. The nice thing about cars like that are the thicker sides, which make the drilling easier.
And at one time Walthers (when it was still itself a manufacturer) used to sell a plastic bag of replacement stirrup steps which was nothing more than a collection of staples, but in sizes not typical to an office or classroom staple machine or gun. I still have them and for lesser quality cars I still use one now and then if I don’t feel like replac
On the other hand they typically have the advantage of being a rectangular cross section, rather than round like wire (real sill steps or stirrup steps are made of flat metal strip, instead of round rod like grab irons.)
I added separate stirrup steps to some Walthers 8000 gallon tank cars years ago. Here’s one with the molded-on steps that came on the car:
And here’s one with the separately-applied steps (I don’t remember who the manufacturer was):
If you look close at the second one, you can also see that I applied additional brake rigging under the car.
Be careful though - next you’ll be adding a train line (for air brakes) and other details to each car. Before you know it you’ll be spending 10-20 hours per car enhancing the detail. Looks great, but it sure eats into your available time.
My apologies, Ed, but I don’t recall seeing that particular item (and I also forgot the correct terminology of “dividers”, rather than draughting compass). I actually have several of them, most of which can use either lead (for making curved lines) or pointy replacements for fixed measurements.
My father was a draughtsman, and I inherited his draughting tools (along with a lot of other tools).
I recall an incident in my first year of highschool, in draughting class, when the teacher. a crusty Scotsman, instructed us to draw a straight line, using only a pencil - no rulers and no straightedges. As he walked down the aisles he said little, other than the occasional “not too bad”. When he got to me, he looked at my effort, then slammed his yardstick onto my table, with a loud accompanyment of Scottish and English cuss words. When he had finished, I drew another line, as straight as the first one…“Verrry gude, lad!”, and he walked away.