Repowering old brass

So the NWSL universals is it two different sizes you used can you list which ones

and it doesn’t say if they come with the shaft part or is that seperate

the K&S the .45 wall or the .225 wall

The universals I use on pretty much every thing are Northwest Short Line 2mm shaft Universal Joint 489-6, they are 2mm. I drill them out to fit the Athearn worms.

I use 2mm steel rod for my drivelines. I bought a package of 10 36” long rods about 15 years ago and I have no idea where I bought it. It goes a long way, I still have 8 full length rods and a 13” shorty after fifty or so remotor jobs.

The K&S tubing is #9821. If you shim the flywheels for 2mm you will need to use the Athearn driveline, the Athearn universal is built into the flywheel.

Mel thanks for that info question does the K&S 9821 tubing fit tight on the motor shaft I’m having trouble finding anyone that carries it in the metric sizes but there is some on amaz by ukell that is 3mm with a 1mm wall so the inside would be 2mm

Keep in mind that the 1mm wall thickness is for the entire circumference of the tubing.

Wayne

That is the number on my package (9821) but it only says 3mm but the Athearn shaft measures 3.1mm so it’s a bit loose in the flywheel. The Athearn flywheel has a plastic universal installed in the other end and it has a 2mm hole in it. I use a 1” long 2mm rod in the plastic universal then coat the 3mm x .36” long sleeve with Super Glue Gel and slip it into the flywheel. Four out of four came out perfect.

I did a fifth flywheel for the pictures above, that’s five out of five that turned out prefect.

I thought about that right about the same time you posted it my bad

the K&S 9821 3mm has a .45mm wall thickness so it will work

Thanks Mike

Mel I see what you are doing but what is the purpose of the short piece that you glue into the flywheel

I thought just super glue the 9821 3mm onto the new motor shaft 2mm then it would press fit into the athearn nuckle part (not using the flywheel)

The flywheel has a 3.1mm bore and the K&S tube is 3mm, a loose fit. To glue it into the flywheel if the tube or sleeve is even a tiny bit off center at 12000RPM it’s bad news.

The 2mm rod keeps the sleeve centered while the Super Glue Gel sets up using the Gel to make up the .1mm difference.

I’ve sleeved six of the Athearn flywheels and all six came out prefect using the 2mm rod for centering.

I tried to remove the Athearn universal from a flywheel and by the time I got it out it was worthless. You could use NWSL universals and make a 2mm shaft motor work but the dual shaft FK-280 motor looks promising. Because it will fit in the Athearn frames with the Athearn flywheels I’m headed in that direction.

Mel

Now I get it I thought you were leaving that short piece in the flywheel

Good idea to center it that way I finally found a source for that K&S stuff so it’s on order and I have a bunch of the athearn nuckle parts from old athearn engines that didn’t have flywheels I know old stuff but still works

And i want to see how that FK-280 motor works out it does look promising

those SF-266 motors can’t fit two in a gp frame

Without the flywheels a pair of 266 motors will fit in a GP, the 280 will fit with both flywheels.

The 280 is smaller than the Athearn motor.

Mel


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I received the two Mabuchi FK-280SA-14200 motors yesterday and did a rough test. The eBay listing says 6-15 volt .075amps no load 12300RPM. At 12 volts it measures 10000RPM .0815amps no load.

I installed it in an Athearn Blue Box GP9 as DC only, I don’t intend to run 4 axle diesels in DCC mode on my layout.

I checked the Athearn motor after removing it and the RPM was very close to the Mabuchi. The Athearn runs 12000RPM no load .2280amps at 12 volts.

Earlier I built a Mel Dynamometer using a Mabuchi SF266 with a shunt load. I haven’t attempted to calibrate it but it does let me compare motors.

The Mabuchi FK-280 has considerable more power than the Athearn motor at less current. The Mabuchi puts out 3.8 watts at 12 volts 600ma and the Athearn does 2.1 watts at 12 volts 1.2amps.

I would recommend the Mabuchi FK

Mel looks good to me I ordered a few of the 280 motors

question I know you use the nwsl 489-6 but I contacted NWSL and he recommended 491-6 2mm-2.4mm with a drive shaft but I’m wondering if the 2.4mm might not be a tight fit on the worm they are 3/32 or 2.3mm

so what you think

I only stock the NWSL 489-6 (2mm). I drill them out with a #43 drill bit (2.26mm) the Athearn worm has a 2.3mm shaft. With the #43 drill bit the universal cup is still a press fit.

I normally use a very small dob of super glue as a lube to slip the cup on the worm shaft.

EDIT:

Make sure the shaft doesn’t go in the cup past the bottom of the cup or it will interfere with the ball joint.

Mel

My Model Railroad

This is with the Athearn flywheels sleeved with 3mm K&S Brass tubing. It becomes a drop in replacement.

Both are the same length so the original Athearn drive lines will work.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

Mel I ordered two of each the 489-6 and 491-6 so I can see what I can do

I’m sure both will work just which one is “easier”

Also ordered 10 of those 280SA motors from what you did they look very promising

I have a few of the old Mantua steamers though about using one of the SF266 motors but needs major surjury on them still might try it

Thanks Mike

Mel I ended up ordering the 492-6 it is 2mm to 2mm but it has a 1 1/2 inch long drive shaft with it also the cups are roughly twice the size as the ones in the 489-6 kit far easier to hold on to and drill with the #43 drill to fit on the athearn worm The 491-6 works but the 2.4 mm cup is not a press fit on the worm still waiting for my motors to get here

The larger cup is probably better, I’ve broken a few of the smaller ball assemblies over the years because of the higher powered motors.

Just yesterday I was rewiring a Rivarossi Cab Forward with a Faulhaber 2224RS motor and stalled the driver wheels and snapped a ball joint.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
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