David Cozzens’ project led me to try a variation of his rerailing ramp with the materials I had on hand. I used a tapered wooden shingle and cut-to-size pieces of a plastic Venetian blind slat, with a thickness of 1/8th inch. It is held together with LocTite Stik-n-Seal, my favorite glue. The pictures show before and after painting.
Works great even for longer cars when you support the far end when loading. My young grandsons will find this handy too.
Looks good, I might have to try that. - Peter
Peter, go for it. It makes large scale life a lot easier.
Incidentally, it turns out that my version is about the same size of the one made by LGB. The Split-Jaw version is much longer in the two sizes it manufactures.
Once again, I am indebted to the GR story and pictures.
Bill, it is wonderful to see someone using an idea they read about and then adapting it for their own use. I like your idea. I’m glad you found the article useful. David Cozzens
My idia for a ramp for Connie’s or any steam Engines/long engines that require connections be made with hidden plug’s ( any thing BMann ) is to use a plastic cutting board ( Wife won’t give up her’s ) with guides. Since they don’t roll without power applied .
Dave
That’s a good idea!
Powered ramp for engines? Here’s a thought. Build your ramp from lexzan (Plexiglas) as usual. Now go to you wife/daughter’s favorite dollhouse supply store. They sell a foil tape that is extremely conductive and easy to use. I did it back in the “N” scale days. Take the foil (available in quarter inch and half inch widths) lay it down in the wheel path and fold over the end to make rail contact. Now drive your engine off the ramp and into the yard.
David, thanks for checking in on our efforts. You did a great job showing us the way. Tom and Dave, your ideas for modifications are excellent.
After making my shorty version out of the materials I had on hand, I went to Lowes and found for sale at $2 pieces of poplar two feet long, four inches wide, and 1/4th of an inch thick. I went back to David’s diagram in GR and built a longer version closer to his original, only a little lower. I followed his instructions to file grooves on the bottom, a must. It loads my longer cars perfectly, and also when I tried a USA S4 loco that I have.
On a final note, my four and six-year-old grandsons came for a visit, and they were both able to put cars on the track effortlessly.
That makes this thread entirely “profitable”! Well done everybody.