After about a 20 year absence I am returning to this great hobby, and since I now basically starting from scratch (I only saved one loco, one building kit, and my scrap box from before), I am debating which type of track to use. I’ve pretty much narrowed my choices to either Central Valley tie strips with code 83, 70, and maybe some 55 rail, or Micro Engineering flex track in the same rail sizes. Old, rusty experience was with Atlas, Walthers,and Shinohara flex and turnouts.
For those who have used the Central Valley product, how is it in comparison with flex?
I seem to recall reading that M-E flex track is tougher to work with than other brands - harder to curve, easier to deform etc… True or false?
And, are the Central Valley turnout kits more compatible, (tie thickness and/or any other gotchas) with any particular brand of track if their standard track system isn’t used?
Have used ME track since 1983, have always liked it, had good operation with it. Yes it is a little “stiffer” than Atlas but it is much nicer to work with.
It’s similar in some ways (basically gluing ties can be just like installing flextrack without rail), and perhaps quicker to use than Micro Engineering flex since you don’t have to spend any time dealing with the stiffness of that product and its resistance to bending.
I’d say true, at least as to the relative difficulty in curving, and I’ve used a lot of ME flex. If you like the scale look of ME track it’s worth the trouble, but is considerably slower to use than Atlas, although about the same as Shinohara/Walthers.
CVT turnouts are compatible with ME flex (the tie thickness and overall appearance are almost indistinguishable when done), and probably Shinohara/Walthers, since those are quite compatible with ME as well. There is a bit of a learning curve to the CVT turnout kits, and you might wish to consider the CVT-based kits offered by the Proto 87 Stores that use many of the CVT parts but add custom frogs and other parts depending on which kit you order http://www.proto87.com/ho-turnouts.html .
The trick to handling ME track is to place it on a flat surface. That way, it’s easier to apply pressure that is sideways. Yep, takes a little more work to get it curved right, but it has the advantage of staying curved on its own once you have it the way you want.
The appearance is outstanding, plus it’s available weathered.
When I need to bend MicroEngineering flex track to a smooth curve, or when I want to make sure that it is a perfect tangent, I use the Ribbonrail track tools that fit between the rails. First to the extent possible I try to bend the track to something close to the desired curve. And yes the track can be prone to take a horizontal or vertical kink so this needs to be done with care, on a flat surface as the prior poster urged. Then with repeated back and forth motions or the Ribbonrail curve templates, you can force a smooth bend into the track. Having said that, it is a bit much to expect that if you use, say, the 32" radius template that you will result in a perfect 32 inch radius curve. Sometimes using the 34" radius template is what gives you the 32" curve, and so on, so I purchased an entire set of the curved templates from Ribbonrail (including various lengths of tangents).
I pencil in the actual curve on the subroadbed, lay the cork roadbed to fit, and then “urge” the MicroEngineering track to follow the center line (I also put easement curves at the ends of curves but that is a different issue – but again the M-E track needs to be carefully urged into place to make the curve smooth and consistent.
On selected sidings I use the preweathered M-E track. You can also buy a patina fluid from them that is useful for darkening turnouts where you may not want to fuss with painting the rails.
You did not ask about it, but another flex track I have used, with some success, on my mainline curves is PSC (Precision Scale Company). They have a line of flex track, somewhat similar in appearance and rigidity to MicroEngineering, in Codes 100, 83 and 70 that includes an unusual product – flex track meant only for curves with super elevation built in to one side of the ties. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/585-4930
Thank you everyone for the warm wishes and information. Now I have some more to ponder. Since there is some more room preparation to do before layout building in earnest can be started, it looks like time to get some samples of both type of track and build a diorama or two…
Welcome back to the hobby! I found ME track (weathered) and turnouts to look great, and be cheaper than other manufacturer’s. Check Bill’s Trains and Track for prices (I believe he’s in Florida). It might not be as quick as other sites or stores (or maybe my anticipation made it seem longer than I wished.lol) but it’s the cheapest source I could find. Weathered flex track is stiffer (the blackening process roughs up the sides of the rail, causing the molded spikes to grab more than the unweathered equivalent. I have mostly straight track (code 70), so I liked the stiffness (easier to paint than a floppy strip). To bend the track, try gently pinching the ties together to make the curve sharper, pull them apart to straighten. It’s tougher to explain than to do; you’re on the right track to try it first on a diorama.
Instead of a diorama, may I suggest a short Free-Mo module? (there seems to be a shortage of curved and junction modules) and you will be able to operate on a really big layout as often as you can travel to local Set-Ups, or sell it once you have found the method you like if you don’t wish to participate in Free-Mo anymore (I’m sure someone would pay $100 or a more for a good junction module; I’m thrifty so I won’t pay as much.lol).
Like you, I was out of MR for ~20 years and came back full steam only about 1 1/2 years ago.
I now model in HOn3 and find ME code 70 track to be just perfect. The extra time spent putting it down is worth it in obtaining that true scale look. The big issue with me is that on bending it and sawing it off square, you have to have saved some old ties to glue under the rather large gap that appears when you install joiners and solder them in place. Again, this is no big issue if you have the time and really want lifelike realism.
I am glad I am working on a short line HOn3 layout and am not having to build large yards with tons of track.
Thanks for the tip on Free-Mo modules; they look interesting. I’m not sure if the group closest to my home is very active any longer, but I will find out. Going this route will allow some layout building to start whilst I finish up the “layout room”.