How do you wire a reversing loop if you are using a DCC system?
I know you can buy the auto reversing mechanisms like the one that Tony’s Train Xchange sells and the ones from other manufacturers but if you don’t have them and need to wire a reversing loop using a DCC system, how is it done?
Bill
Buy a Tony’s PSrev and DO NOT MESS with the other brands. Hook up as in the instructions and you will be a very happy person. Works perfect as shipped.
Take Care
George P.
In other words…you have to have a reversing mechanism. The way DCC works, you can’t simply reverse the rails like you would in DC.
The rails are “A” and “B” in DCC BOTH carry A/C signal with DCC packets. In DC you have a + and a - rail. When you hit the reverse switch in DC the power to the rails revers and train changes direction. In DCC the PACKET from the controler is sent to the Decoder which translates the command and the loco changes direction. The Decoder is a A/C to D/C converter if you wish. With all that said.
The reverse loop in DCC is controlled by an elctronic MATCHING device. Relay which is a mechanical latch (Digitrax) or the electronic equal (Tony’s). When the units sense a mismatch in “A” “B” the units switches to match “AA” and “BB” with out you throwing a toggls switch.
YOU CAN wire a DPDT and do it yourself. you will need lights or an indicator to tell you when to flip the switch and then when to flip it back. This is all done by a PSrev.
Hope this is closer to what you asked.
Also consider the Digitrax AR1 unit - worked perfectly for me and was simple as hooking up four wire and gapping the section.
The AR1 and the MRC A/R unit both work fine (You never know they are there.) And they only cost about $24. And I’m sure that Tony’s is fine too. You’ll love it. Never have to think about reversing loops with DCC (After installation of course.)
Without the black box, you need a switch machine with DPDT contacts. Wire this as a standard reversing switch and your reverse loop will flip to match the setting of your turnout.
You may get a temporary interruption of the signal that resets your decoder.
I had no luck with the MRC and the AR/1 needed a power supply. My $.02
George, the AR1 does not require a power supply, if you mean that as a stand alone plug-in power supply.
It does require power to be supplied as it obtains its power from the main bus. The board uses 4 inputs - 2 to the main bus and two to the reverse section of track.
[:I]Sorry, was thinking about the circuit breaker system. [:I]
Take Care
George P.
Gotta agree with George, the AR1 won’t allow for varying amounts of loco’s in the loop. 1 loco on it’s own, adjust setting to suit, then a MU of loco’s and the adjustment is different the relay clicks on and off. Tony’s is solid state once it’s set up it’s done no clicking or adjustments.
Just my 2 c
Ken.
I have to concur with the Tony’s comment. I have a very large reversing section with a PS REV. I can have 1 locomotive or 6 locomotives and it still works fine. The most I have had so far is 8.
I’m just learning about this subject but have been told to be sure and use the electronic type reversers as sold by Tony’s as they greatly reduce sparking. Reversers from Lenz and maybe Digitrax create excessive sparking that can pit loco wheels.
Jerry
Well, I ordered the Power Shield Intelligent Reverse / Breaker from Tony’s Train Exchange. I’ve read several other threads and found the people that are using them love them.
I wanted to set up the reverse loop using a manual system but decided against that method and stay on the safe side. I don’t want to burn anything up.[:D]
Bill
Bill here is how you wire it up manually with a DPDT toggle switch (see image link). People seems to be ignoring your actual question http://www.elgincomp.com/reverseswitch.jpg I have wired several of these without problem and for much less than $$ then the auto reverse modules.
You insulate both tracks on both end of the loop. have the DPDT switch flipped to match the polarity of the tracks the loco is coming from then when the loco has passed the first insulated rail joiner flip the toggle switch. The Loco will continue moving in it’s orginal direction but with reversed polarity. (isn’t DCC great 
Thanks stuinstra for answering my question. I thought about doing it that way but was afraid to throw the switch when the engine was in the isolated reverse loop so I just didn’t use the reverse loop at all. Tonight I’ll give it a try.
Bill
If I have a reverse loop at both ends of the main will I need 2 of the reversing units from Tony’s?
Yes or no. Really. If there can only ever been one train entering and exiting the reverse section at a time, ie, you operate alone and/or the track geometry is such so that you couldn;t have trains in both reversing sections at the same time, then you can get away with just one autoreverse to power both of them. But if there is even the slightest chance of two trains hitting the reverse sections around the same time, then you definitely need a seperate autoreverse for each loop.
–Randy
Then it sounds like I should start off with just one, because I’m only going to have one loco to start off with. If it can enter both reverse loops at once then I need to get out of this hobby!
If your dong multiple reverse loops and you plan to use auto reversers then you might want to purchase a 4in1 auto reverser. (4 reverse modules in 1 unit) Tony’s sells this also. It cost more but less than 4 single units
