Right Decoder for a Proto 1000 F3-A and B none sound?

Pretty simple question I think? I have 4 PK1, F3’s 2 A’s and 2 'Bs all powered. LHS keeps (well I think) they are the not the right decoders. My PK1 have as jumper board over the top of what looks like a 8 pin conector then the PC board. Looks like there sould be a Male and Female plug for the decoder so it can go between the board. Or do I have to wire the DCC decoder?

2 I want to wire for none sound, 2 I want to have sound decoders. I have the MRR mag that list the DCC with sound and part numbers so that is covred.

Anyone looking for afforable pulling power the PK1’s F3’s are a steal. I have ran 3 on K-10’s Model Trains bench and pulled 100 cars with no effort. Just tried a 37 car drag with just 1 up my grade, could not do it. Added a second A unit and will craw or go a like a Hemi off the line with 10"s slicks. (none car people that is good)

With some luck you still may find them on E-Bay new for the pair for $40.00 for a set of powered A & B set. They make my Athearn Super Weight F7’s look like winps but yet they will still get the job done.

Question and a review? Cuda Ken

Ken, how are you doing?

THis is what my P1K’s look like inside http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/llf3a.html I wonder from your description if you have a newer generation that have an 8 pin plug, sounds like you do?

On mine it was a simple hand wire job with a couple of tracks to cut.

Take Simon’s suggestion and whatever you do go with the TCS decoder. They have a no questions ask replacement warranty on their decoders. That way when you fry one you can get it replaced.

Question - Why does everything have to do with how many cars a locomotive can pull? There are other characteristics such as slow speed operation, accuracy, and detailing

Remove the original board and install (plug in) the DCC decoder.

You do not reinstall the old board.

Headlight will require a resistor.

Unless you use the TCS A6X, which has a 1.5v regulator built in. [:)]

Sure…

NOW you tell me! [sigh]

Simon great to hear from you. I think mine may be the newer version. I will take a PIC and post later. Not sure I am up to hard wiring a PC board with my iron, pretty big tip. Hope to see you and the boys again at K-10! Kens has been keeping me pretty busy with selling on E-Bay.

All the other people that have taken there time to answer, thank you so much. I will up date in the next few days.

Jktrains, main reason I post more about pulling power instead of details may be the following. Being a X drag racer pulling power = HP to me that I understand. Maybe I a need drag strip for my engines. Details are a little lost on me, my eye sight blows for up close. Heck I broke off 1/2 to lift rings on my first PK2 E-6 before I knew they where there! Plus I am 8 foot to 22 foot away from my lines from where I control it. Athearn Blue Box looks as detailed as a PCM, BLI or a PK2.

Cuda Ken

If your F3s have a circuit board with an 8 pin plug underneath they are DCC ready.

Remove the board plugged into that 8 pin socket and put it up someplace in case you ever decide to go back to DC.

Plug your decoder into the 8 pin plug.

It takes 30 seconds unless you need to mount a speaker.

Do not reinstall the original board. There is no soldering involved.

The instructions for doing that are on the exploded view parts list in the package the F3s came in.