Chip,
Lil’ Guy’s in my thoughts and prayers. I hope he comes out from the operation workin’ like a brand new champ!
As the rest have said, please, keep us posted as to how the surgery turned out and of Lil’ Guy’s prognosis.
JP
While I like the SW-1 it seems like going around undecorated is almost like running around with no clothes on. I’m half tempted to offer a free custom paint job on the engine so it can assume an identity and number.
I ordered the Tuscan Red last week. It’ll be joining the PRR as soon as it gets out of the hospital.
By the way, I have a 6 track passenger staion called Creekside Staion that is becoming my MRR club home base. It is in serious disrepair, but hey. He might not get out much, but Lil guy will be joining the E7.
I just got one–PRR $39.99.
Chip,
You won’t regret it. It will make a lovely bride for Lil’ Guy and you a happy man! Do give us a heads up when you decide to add the decoder. The motor does need to be isolated from the frame BEFORE adding the decoder or the decoder will go POOF!
Tom
Are you talking about the new Proto or Lil Guy?
The new Proto. Check Tony’s Train Exchange for details. Here’s the direct link about the problem and the solution:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2001/120601.htm
Let me know how you like the new switcher, when it comes in…
Tom
Don’t worry, it’s weasy. I have pics of decodering my S1 in a webshots gallery linked from my web page. haha the internet portion of this is more complicated than the actual decoder install… [:D]
–Randy
It is a real service to provide instructions such as these. If I was any good with a soldering iron, I could do it with these instructions. (Heck I know I’m going to try it.)
PS: Here’s a Photo Essay I did on slicking up a Ruger Vaquero for Cowboy competition.
Uh Randy, …uh you wouldn’t…u… you know…like …want to do …uh…a Bachman…uh…4-8-4… uh Photo Essay. Uh, I’ll supply the 4-8-4 .
Randy,
That’s great! Don’t you also have to replace the headlight when you install the decoder? (oop…question answered in 13 of 14.)
On the topic of headlights. Randy, have you ever tried replacing the weak incondescent bulbs in the P2K S1 for brighter LED’s? Is that possbile? How much of a headache would you think that would be to replace them? The one issue that comes to mind is: Do the indondescent bulbs look more prototypical? Thanks!
Tom
Well I DO have to do a Bachmann Plus 2-8-0, which should be the same but smaller. As soon as my father in law gets around to deciding which locos he wants me to convert first. Don;t expect it anytime soon. But I’m certainly willing to give it a go, I’m pretty handy when it comes to mechanical and electrical things, it’s the scenery that I hate… [:)]
–Randy
As you saw, no, not with the decoder I used. That’s the same one I used in my GP-7’s so I didn’t have to change the bulbs. It’s really not the best choice for the S1, it’s too big, hence the frame filing. A TCS M1 would have been a MUCH better choice, but then you would have to change the bulbs, or use a resistor.
LEDs would not be hard to add, you just have to add a resistor. 1K is save for pretty much any normal LED. Those bright white LEDs don;t look right, too bluish. They’re fine for modern locos. The “Golden White” ones look like old style incandescents. Somewhere buried on Loy’s Toys web site is a picture showing a line up of locos with regular bulbs, bright white, golden white, and sunny white LEDs so you can compare.
–Randy
Chip,
Sorry to see Lil Guy in pieces. If you don’t think you are yet up to the task of trying to fix him, ask the guys at the layout you run on who would be most likely to help. You could get someone with the experience you need to find a clever way to fix it and get him running “good as new” in short order. Sometimes it pays to not get in too big a hurry to fix something. Often, the right answer takes a little time to come to you.
I looked at your picture of the damage and I bet I could fix it pretty quick. Could you use a small bolt with a locking (fiber) nut in the cab? I would be very reluctant to expand the width of the hole to re-thread it, but it may be easier to drill all the way through and just mount it with a bolt (and sleeve to take up the slack between the bolt and truck).
When you build up your junk box, also keep a junk screw box. You would be amazed at the funky screws you run across over time. Strip all the useable hardware off anything you get ready to throw away (old radios, CD players, etc.). You will build up a sizeable collection in no time.
Mark C.
After following the recent saga of Lil Guy I went down to the train room and dug out the box of old stuff. Here is what I found:
If you want to contact me off line, I will mail it to you.
Tom
That’s right nice of you.
Aww, that is awesome![^]