Hello. I have a new, from Trainworld, Riv Heisler, and was not satisfied w/ the pulling. Wheels would spin under a small load. After reading instructions, duh, I saw there was a traction wheel set included. I installed, per instructions, and now cannot get rid of an annoying jerk during backup running. Forward is fine, but backing produces a jerk that seems to be caused by the worm gear. I checked the gears, they don’t seem to be out of sync. The side rods are also loose enough.
Is there a magic config w/ the sync of the side rods, front to back? Something else with the gearing? I also believe there is sufficient lube. I am sorta new to this, but plan to tear many things apart in the future, so I need to start somewhere.
By the way, I like the looks and performance of this loco. If I could just undo whatever it was I did…
I’ve never had a Riv. Heisler, but what you describe sounds like a split plastic axle gear on the traction tire equipped drivers (assuming the gear is plastic, and not metal). If you take it apart again and look closely, you may find a split that runs between the teeth, which will cause the engine to jerk every time it tries to mesh with the mating gear.
This is a common problem in certain brands, particularly some older Proto 2000 diesels. I don’t know what Trainworld’s return policy is, because Rivarossi parts aren’t easy to come by. If this is the problem, you could try search Hornby’s website for parts, or contact an online store called Golf Manor Hobbies, but be sure you let them know you’re looking for a wheelset from the latest Heisler version.
My older run Rivarossi 2 Truck Heisler has metal gears on the axels and worm, so that may not be the problem. Sounds like one or both of the drive worms as shifting enough to cause some binding when going in the one direction. You may want to try some thrust washers on those to remove as much back and forth play on those worms as possible.
The older generation RR’s had metal axle gears, but when they retooled them they switched to plastic in all of the locos I’ve seen. If the gears are still intact, or made of metal, then the problem lies elsewhere.
I just got the Rivarossi heisler as well and put on the traction wheel on the rear truck.
First, all went fine going forward , but the engine made a maddening sound in reverse and then the drive rod fell off because the screw came out. I futzed around and redid it, with a tighter screw. Now if still makes a bit of noise in reverse, but the rod stays intact.
When I push the engine backward the truck jumps the track when I stop. The traction end is okay, but the non-traction wheels jump when stopping. Wierd.
I haven’t put the original non-traction-tired wheel on to see if the traction tire is the culprit, or a gear problem. But from this post, I’d say Rivarossi might have a problem with this otherwise nice model.
It’s going to derail because the traction tire won’t allow the sliding of it across the rail. It sticks to it. I have the same problem. Maybe try putting the traction tire on one of the wheels directly underneath the engine itself;not the tender.
Thanks for all the posts. I spent 4 hours on it last night. I moved the traction tire to the front, same results. I took the traction tire off completely and returned the originals to service, there was a slight jerk, which made me think I had something else messed up. I had originally removed the cab to investigate weight addition to the body. But after taking it apart and putting back together, there is still that small jerk. I put the traction tire back on the rear of the engine (mine does not have a tender… yet), and will live with it. If it is a plastic gear mismatch, it will either smooth out or show itself soon enough.
Again, thanks for the posts, if a solution presents itself, I will be sure to pass it along.
It happens on some Bachmanns, and on some BLI steamers according to some complaints I’ve read here. It’s a problem that crops up now and then ever since the early 60’s when Athearn and Lionel made steamers that were guaranteed to have split axle gears.
It sounds like it probably isn’t the issue here, though.
I received this reply from Hornby.US. It took a couple of days and I have not tried the solutions herein, just wanted to share the info.
Inserted text follows:
"The problem you describe may be caused by the traction tire being loose on
the wheel and as it starts to move the tire “sticks” to the rail and then
lets loose. Check to see how tight the fit is on the tire. If this is the
case you can try a drop of super glue to fix the tire to the wheel and keep
it from “shlumping” as the wheel start to turn.
Another cause could be too much traction with the tire and it sticks to the
rail. The composition of the tire may be generating a “sticky” situation.
You could try using a “little additional weight when not using the traction
tire; this may increase your traction somewhat but not quite to the same
level as using the traction tire.”
Hornby actually used the word “shlumping?” [(-D] I don’t think I’ve ever had a traction tire shlump before. It’s nice when a problem turns out to be something so simple, tho.
The original tires may be too soft or gummy, because they shouldn’t bunch up or stick to the rail. A better option would be Super Traction Tires which are vinyl and tougher than most. My LHS sells tires supplied by a guy who works out of his house here locally, and they’re some of the best I’ve seen. They are perfectly true, and grip like mad. I’m sure there’s a size that will fit.