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Rivarossi HO Allegheny 2-6-6-6 with Loksound
I was particularly interested in the comments about the drawbar, which is I think an area of model locomotive design that the manufacturers need to address. There should be some effort put into coming up with a design that attaches the tender to the locomotive both mechanically and electronically with a single, easy to snap-together part that is much more convenient to use.
I have one and I love the product!!! A great addsion to any layout!!!
I have two and I plan to double-head them with coal cars with REAL loads. Awesome power and smoothness.
I have one of the first additions that came out in 2001, I have since added both DCC and sound. I opted to use MRC componets, they work very well and sound great.I am planning to purchase one of the new additions in the near future.
Thanks for your comments, all. I still have not come up with a solution to the incorrect sound files. A call to the retailer leads me only to the manufacturer of either the locomotive or its decoder for resolution. I hope new purchasers of this model will offer their own brief assessments here. Crandell
I am considering this loco also. Glad to hear that it comes with both traction tires and metal wheels - your choice. As for a LokSound decoder, I think the sound files are likely programmable using a LokSound’s LokProgrammer computer interface and software. This seems to want a serial cable so hopefully the user’s computer has the serial port still - mine does not…but perhaps a USB adapter would work… If the computer bit is too much, I think you can send the decoder off to Tony’s Train Exchange and have them program it for you… http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/loksound-review.htm
I feel that Rivarossi did a nice job with the allegheny,but the exhaust sounds and whistle aren’t right. The exhaust chuffs are weak sounding and the whistle should be a hooter. As far as I am concerned QSI has the best overall sounds of any system out there and the Blueline is very close. As one commenter noted the smallparts package is tough to place especially the chains on the tender trucks and I found that a tool that Micromark sells for hand laying track worked very well for holding the tiny pins that hold the chains to the trucks and the tender. Outside of that, its a very nice model.
Good looking loco & very good drawbar pull & there it ends. The front wheels tend to hop off the rails with mine;there is no suspension in the frame so I don’t know what to do about it. I found on mine that half of the tangs under the tender whre never bent out to touch the axels. If you put the grabs & chains on the tender they will all have to come off to remove the tender shell! Also the toy like chuff sound & an entirely incorrect whistle make this loco a real disappointment, except for stationary display!
Sound system is plain, & simply put…“Weak!” Whistle sounds as if it came from an 0-6-0 (at best!). Solution:
Install aTsunami “Heavy Steam” sound decoder; “Now…that’s-a soma-spicy-a-meat-a-ball!!!”
AL
I have the early model when they first came out.
To put the brake hangers on the drivers would be a complete tear down and why didn’t they furnish a metric wrench to remove the side rods. Some of the parts are very fragile.
I never cared for articulating both sets of drive gear the way they do.
The prototype articulates the front set of drivers only. They pivot from the rear drivers. I have an Akane that pivots only the front set.
JFB
I have two 2-6-6-6 I had a problem with th power pick ups.
The little spring in it burned out with DCC. No one had them. I remember a hobby store in Cincinnati when at the national. I called and they had them for $10.00 plush shipping. I installed them but in about 5 days they burned out again.
Now the engines are parked at the round house as static display.
Joseph ringbauer
UPDATE - from my earlier post in this thread of 7/21/2008 and having read all the later ones: I bought one of these soon after that post and it runs fine. I was able to adjust the sound volume using DCC programming of the LokSound CV’s (download their LokSound decoder manual). I did not (yet) seek to program the decoder for any changes in sounds over what came from the factory. However, a year or so into ownership, the sound abruptly quit. I tracked it to a bad (blown?) speaker. Luckily these are stock LokSound speakers and I had one on hand in my parts bin. I say luckily because you have to use a LokSound speaker with their decoders to match the non-standard resistance. Of course, you can buy these speakers most anywhere. Anyway, I made the swap and restored my sound. The new speaker continues to work to this day…
Crandell-
Thank you for the very thorough review. I traded for a non-sound
locomotive and installed a Tsunami ‘Heavy’ steam decoder. I placed a 1.25" HB and 1.25" round speaker in the tender. Sounds like a hulking rail monster. The engine runs woppingly well and easily pulls sixty 55 ton hoppers.
I agree with your assessment of the plastic; care is necessary when handling.
This is not my father’s Rivarossi!
Molding and detail are comparable to most brass and current high end plastic models.
The mechanism is smooth, quiet, and generates plenty of power.