Yes, it’s the plate on the bottom that’s missing. I see a later vintage yard goat on e-bay that looks to have a similar if not identical bottom plate. If I can get it cheap enough I may just pop for that unit rather than attempt to fabricate my own plate. The connectors are there although they’ll need new wires and soldering. The cow catcher has one side broken off otherwise it’s in flawless cosmetic shape. That’s why I assumed it was the 69-74 vintage, the plastic work on it looks so clean and I assumed they didn’t do plastic work like this back in early 60. I am not sure how the tender cover comes off on this one. I don’t see any mounting screws on the bottom side of the unit.
Nice pictures.[:D] It looks like the engine may have been a 2-8-0 at one time, because the pilot looks really long for an 0-8-0.
Rivarossi had some of the best detailed plastic steam engines in the 60s, 70s and 80s. My dad’s old 0-4-0 Dockside has a very nice looking shell, and it’s from the early 60s.[:D]
The tender shell might be snapped on. It could also be that the screws (or pins) holding the trucks on are also holding the shell on.
Well it only took me five years(I am the original poster, 235301, just a new name on the forums) but the Rivarossi 1515 is back up and running. I had to cobble it together with parts from 2 other units purchased off of e-bay(it’s now a frankenlocomotive but at least 2/3 is original). It’s satisfying to get this 50 yr old engine back up and running and looking pretty good. Runs OK on code 100 track. But boy what a dumb design. The tender is always trying to torque itself off the track, trying to rotate around the engine(the motor and drive shaft is in the tender). Question: for the rods/valves attached to the wheels on the engine; I can’t get them tightened down enough so that they don’t loosen themselves while the engine is running(with disastrous results when they come completely loose). Is using threadlocker common for the screws into the wheels? There are belleville washers on some of the wheels between the rod and the wheel as well as brass sleeves/bearings. So either I’ve assembled this wrong or threadlocker is the answer. I have no idea what I am doing and this is all being done by feel. Which means I’ve had to do everything over and over at least 10 times before it looks right.
Also, the motor when running has that typical old motor smell(not burning, the motor is running very cool even at high speeds). Just has that funky smell that isn’t pleasant. Any idea what causes this and can it be remedied? Is it the brushes?
TIA!
The smell is normal for Rivarossi motors. I think it is ozone from the brushes sparking. You have to choose the correct threadlocker or you may have a problem getting them apart again. I have used a very small amount of rubber cement on the threads with a toothpick. Even a small amount of model (testors) paint sometimes works.
Bob
Now here is an old thread that I did NOT expect to see revived! But it is good to hear from you and about the progress with the locomotive.
The problem with tender drive that you mention is simply endemic to tender drive. As my old post mentioned the only saving grace is to make the tender heavy – as with the Mantua General 4-4-0.
Rivarossi offered a special tiny little wrench to tighten the hex bolts for side rods and valve gear. My general experience is that once loosened they never get quite as tight again. Indeed that is also my experience with HO brass locomotives. I would go with Thread locker. What harm could it do so long as you take care not to gum up the entire works.
The HOSeeker pages for the AHM 0-8-0 all date from when the motor was moved to the cab but the drawings for the valve gear and side rods might be of some slight help
http://www.hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahm080switcherpg1.jpg
Dave Nelson
I am not sure why you cannot lockdown those siderod screws, but hit the hardware stores and look for the mini-wrench sets, look for metric as these are european built. The screws and nuts are metal they aughta tighten in fine. The drivers are however plastic and your bound to snap them overtightening and trying to loosen if you tightlocked them. Just lube your siderods up, check for interference/binding, you should be okay. If the screws just won’t stay, start with walthers goo, if it still won’t stay, go a little stickier cement, if still try the tightlock. But try none at all first just tightening them down snug enough.
Giving the enge the overall lubing may help some torquing, weighting the tender should help.
That’s not actually an 0-8-0. It’s an Americanized version of the FS (Ferrovia dello Stato - Italian State Railways) class 740 2-8-0 that Rivarossi sold for some time in the late 50’s and perhaps a bit longer.
If you get a chance, watch “Von Ryan’s Express”. IIRC, the engine involved was a 740 class 2-8-0. IIRC, the German train chasing “Von” Ryan’s escape train was of the 743 class with a Franco-Crosti boiler.
Here’s a pic of a later Rivarossi model of the 743: http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/30015/HR2195_Rivarossi_280_Steam_locomotive_Gr743301
Andre
The unit I have from my grandfather did not have the forward truck to make it a 2-8-0. And every one I’ve purchased off of e-bay for repair parts did NOT have the forward truck. But I did find this from the catalog in 1963:
http://www.hoseeker.net/ahminformation/ahmcatalog1963page01.jpg
It’s the 280 unit in the lower right. Showing the forward trucks. There is an empty screw hole on the bottom of the engine that looks like it would accomodate the forward truck(excuse me if my terms are completely off).
So, wondering if a) adding a forward truck would make the engine run better and b) if so, where would one go to get said truck to attach it to the engine.
Thanks for all the great input.
Come on you guys, give the newbie a break, that was his third post.
[#welcome] Clint
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.