Beside the foam tack glue (woodland scenics) what general adhesive can I use to attach my track to trackbed ( I am using WS track bed) to plywood surface? I am looking for an inexpensive hardware store adhesive, both for display and functional layout. Any and all ideas would be great and thank you for the help.
Many people have reported using caulk works well.
I’ve never really liked the idea of gluing stuff down, makes it virtually impossible to change things easily if you decide you need to correct something. I’d rather use small nails, once everything is in place and ready to go the ballast and matte medium usually keeps everything in place.
Latex adhesive caulk, not silicone caulk.
I use DAP Acrylic Latex Caulk (“Alex Plus”).
Squirts out White
Sets Clear & Right!
Takes a bit to dry (couple hours), so tack down yr track.
I use the same stuff to “glue” trees, large bushes & rocks to plaster layout, loads into hoppers / coal cars, and foam to plywood.
Stick to it!
–Mark
I used just plain white glue. Undiluted from the bottle to glue track and cork to foam and plywood. T pins will hold it steady. Then when ballasted and glued again its all solid but slightly flexible and easily changed when needed.
Pete
My only deviation from Mark’s method is to use grey caulk to adhere flex track (and wooden ties) to the roadbed. That way, if I leave a holiday in the ballast it doesn’t reveal the pink foam that I’ve carved into roadbed.
I anchor the track to the uncured caulk with temporary track nails, then load it down with weights until the caulk sets up. By weights, I refer to heavy steel angle iron, portable tool batteries and 2-liter soda bottles. (I decided that my 16 inch length of 60#/yard rail was overkill.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I understand your hesitancy over caulking, but if the caulk is spread thinly, getting stuff up is no big deal.
At the same time, it is always a good idea to prove your track configuration and geometry before you fix it in one place anyway. I rough it in, test it thoroughly with actual trains and temporary power, and if it passes the test, I make that my plan. I draw a centreline and follow it scrupulously. Then, when I go to fix the tracks in place with the caulk, I can see the line that I drew because the caulk is spread that thin!
Thirdly, it is never a bad thing to play with a track set-up for a week to ensure it will withstand use and keep you happy. If you decide to change, a knife blade sawed backed and forth between the roadbed and the ties will free the tracks with a bit of elbow grease. If you are happy, on the other hand, ballasting or something like it will have your tracks looking their best by covering the bits of visible caulk if you elected to use a coloured variety.
-Crandell
I use either yellow wood glue or full strength white glue, which ever I have handy at the moment.
Nick
I attach the foam roadbed to the base with white glue and use acrylic latex adhesive caulk to attach the track to the road bed - make sure you get the kind that dries clear. I put it on with a caulk gun and then smooth it out with a putty knife.
I used the DAP Alex Plus in addition to the ACE Hardware house brand that was siliconized. As my layout is outside, and every once in a while it does rain in the desert, I found the siliconized version was not impacted by rain. Track comes up relatively easy by using a thin, flexible spatula/putty knife when changes are required.
I use Aileen’s (sp?) Tacky Glue or latex caulk - whatever I have on hand at the time. The ATG does not pull up as easily as caulk.
The cheapest latex caulk I can find in gray to match my ballast color, spread thin with the unending credit card offer cards that come in the mail.That’s for foam, roadbed and track.
Terry