I’m useing HO cork for my mainline and branchlines, but what do you guys do for yards and round house areas? Looking at real ones, they are pretty flat. Do you lay your track directly on the ply wood? Do you use large sheets of cork for these areas? I saw an article in MR (Turtle Creek layout) where they used N cork for a lower profile on HO. Any thoughts?
“N cork for a lower profile on HO. Any thoughts?”
Had not thought of that one my self, it does sound like a better idea, I try it on my next yard.
the sheet cork is a good way to do it but it gets expensive…another way is to transverse the mainline track and taper it down from the cork to the plywood itself…I use the strip cork roadbed thru out the yard tracks and it looks ok…chuck
The answer is “Yes”. All of these methods have been used in the past by many. I found that a sheet of foam insulation worked well. I used a piece that wasn’t quite as tall as the mainline to give the area some definition, and then I set my yard out on that. A slight ramp for a transition and you’re set.
I used the foam because I could carve contours in it. Most yards are quite flat, but it helps to break it up a little if you model a drainage ditch off one side. Or if it’s a large yard maybe a ditch through it. All of this is easier with foam then just about anything else.
Besides, it’s cheap, easy to work with, and quiets the RR down too.
It really depends on how carried away you want to get. The only tricky part is forming a smooth transition. I haven’t decided what I want to do about this issue on my own layout, and I’m getting close to needing to make one.
One way to look at it is, will anyone but you even notice that there is a height difference? By that standard, if you want the sound deadening, use the sheet cork and be done. The flat look is really more important than the height.
Joey- MR did a series on building the Turtle Creek layout last year and they used N on HO.It looked good! I’ve always thought the HO was a little too tall looking even for most main lines.If you go N, you have to peice a strip in the middle for proper width. I think if I can get N scale sheets I’ll go that route. I can always cut some ditches in the cork as mentioned above in foam.
I use cork that comes in a roll -1/8"or 3/32 .I bought mine at Hobby
Lobby . I ‘ve also seen it at a office supply store.HL cost about $20.
The roll is 2’ wide x 8’long.
TGANT.
Laying the track directly on the sub roadbed is OK in yards. The ties were usually covered with mud and dirt (cinders depending on your era) anyway. Little or no ballast was used. Sometimes the dirt reached the top of the rail head.
I am using yard pads (sheet cork) and strips of cork on my 2 yards. Just my[2c] Tim
I have all my track on regular cork roadbed for my yard and engine facilities.
And where I want it flat I fill in the areas with Durhams Water Putty, its great stuff to work with.
Easy to mix and apply and to change the area of the layout as you wish. So it turns my yard flat and engine facility flat also.
It can be used for many other purposes also and can be found at Home Depot and Lowes.
Mark
I’m working on a yard using the very techniques you are talking about. I used “N” scale roadbed for the mainline. I laid the yard tracks directly onto a sheet of homosote. I took a piece of roadbed and gently sanded one end until it was very thin. I used this to transition from the mainline to the yard. Once I add ballast, cinders, and dirt I won’t even notice the transition.
Jim
Perhaps if you go from the cork to a flat area a wood roofing shingle works great for the traniston between them. Also stores like Staples have cork in sheet form, lots cheeper…John
On an old layout I used sheet cork that me and my father got at homedepot. It worked pretty well.
Thanks for the tips on Staples,Hob Lob and Depot! I never even thought about that. I’ve seen a bundle of window/door shim wood at Depot for transitions. I think I’ll go for sheets of 1/8" cork for the yards.(especially if I can get it that cheap)
[#ditto]
I bought the 2’ x 8’ roll of 1/8" cork at Hobby Lobby for $12.99. Used Midwest products HO cork roadbead for the main and tapered it down on the approach to the yard. I wanted to use the 1/8" cork mainly because putting track down on plywood alone induces noise when operating that section.
Mike in Tulsa
BNSF Cherokee Sub
I used 1/8 foam insulation for my yard. It comes in a bundle folded like an accordion. I got it at Lowe’s. I can’t remember what it cost but I know it was dirt cheap compared to anything available from any hobby stores. It mates well with Woodland Scenics foam roadbed and is much cheaper. I did a twelve track ladder yard 16 feet long and used less than half of what was in the bundle.
I used 1/2" blue foam for my yard, works great. Lets you use your fingers to push in the nails, lay all your track, then when you ballast, its all bonded and you pull out the nails.
If you want a raised main, use your cork or R1 foam. Ive used R1 for all my other track and its great! Very easy to use!
Ive had issues with the sheet cork drying out and crumbling.
Randy
Except for temporary lines and extremely broke RRs ALL track is ballasted… just may not look like it is if it hasn’t been maintained properly for some time… or if it is in pavement or other concrete/tarmac surface. REALLY bad track does end up in mud but this rides badly, helps derailments by rocking or spreading and causes immense trouble…
ANYWAY… one way round the different levels question is to do everything flat but look at the real thing for what goes on between tracks… there is often a drainage ditch between main roads and yards or a hump of material. The actual difference between mains and other tracks is often not much more that 6" …=1mm in N and 1.75mm in H0… which you will barely see even if you try to look across the roofs of box cars. So i would suggest that for anything less tha 12" difference you would make life easier for yourself by creating an illusion of diference in height rather than trying to actually do it.
Have fun.
G’day, Y’all,
I, too, used Durham’s Water Putty to fill in where I wanted almost no roadbed. It works best when you read the fine print on the box and drip in a little vinegar so that the setting time is retarded. But if I had to do it all over (and there will be another time) I’m going to use 1/8" N Midwest cork roadbed instead of 1/4" HO. But I’ll still use Durham’s. I have to, Lowe’s only had a five-pound box when I needed some to fini***he layout so I’ve got plenty.
Jock Ellis
Cumming, GA US of A
Georgia Association of Railroad Passengers
Randy- No I don’t want raised mains. That’s what I’m trying to avoid. I’ve just seen that real yards all look pretty flat. You spoke of your cork drying out. I’ve heard other people say this but I’ve never had that problem.(had some that was down over 10 years.) I don’t soak mine in water first and never really understood why I should. Anybody got a comment on this?
Jock- I’ve been wondering about that Duhrums stuff for filling joints on my bench work. Does it stay flexable when dry or will it crack on a joint like plaster?
(Thanx for all the tips guys)