I’m new to the forum, and I’ve noticed most of you folks use cork for a roadbed. Woodland Scenics boasts it makes for the ‘quietest’ roadbed and it ‘won’t contract/expand’ like cork. I’ve built dioramas with it and is easy to manipulate - it seems great. So, is it really just a matter of preference, or is one ‘better than the rest’?! All opinions greatly appreciated.
[#welcome]This a great place to learn as well as give advice. I’m sure you will like it here.
As far as roadbed is concerned, I use cork for the mainline and nothing at all for the yards. I prefer the look the ballast gives when the track is flat on the sub roadbed be it foam or plywood.[2c]
I agree with Bruce,I do mine the same, for the yards rather than the plywood I pick up sheets of foam rubber from Wal-Mart they are 1’ x 18" and are about 1\16 th thick and come in all colors I use the Brown as it is an earth color, I glue them down and lay my Yard track over top, I have also used Laminate floor underlay foam the flat stuff not the ribbed, once it’s painted brown and covered in ground foam or ballast it look’s great and it’s cheap a roll enough to do any amount you want is like $ 11.00.
Have fun…
Mike
I use cork. I’ve used the WS foam on one section of track and completely hate it! I’m really sorry I used it but it’s too late now.[V][2c]
Me,too!!!
Terry
Cork isn’t a good choice for the conditions here in a non-climate-controlled garage in the Dessicated Desert (115+ degrees, no humidity for a couple of months a year, very low humidity all the time.) I personally use thin extruded foam (sold as fan-fold underlayment for use under vinyl siding) for roadbed, fastened to the plywood subgrade with latex caulk. Mainline track is laid on roadbed with ballast contour, yards are laid on sheet stock, which also supports rail-related buildings at the appropriate height.
All of my subgrade is cookie-cut plywood, so I handle level changes by offsetting the plywood up or down, keeping the foam full thickness. That’s a lot less likely to create a mess than trying to reduce the roadbed thickness with a Sur-Form tool!
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Welcome prairieboy2765!
I use cork also on the mains and nothing for the yards. I usually paint the sub roadbed with a mixture of black & browns.
Paul
I use the WS roadbed and it works fine for me. It is very easy to work with too. As for quieter … perhaps a little bit. Once the ballast is glued down I don’t believe that there is much difference in sound levels.
In my opinion it’s just a matter of preference.
BTW: For yards, I use mineral surface ice shield (a common product here in the wintry northeast). The stones are the right size, it’s only about 3/16" thick and it comes in 36" wide self stick sheets. The big drawback is you have to buy a 50 or 100 foot roll unless you know a roofing contractor.
Karl
PS: [#welcome] to the forum.
REAL Railroads use roadbed for drainage.
MODELERS use roadbed to look real’. It also smoothes out bumps and imperfections (knotts) in the wood.
Plastic is easier. Homabed is quieter, but Cork is more flexible. NO roadbed is cheaper (period). Cork also accepts different types of track.
So, NO ROADBED IS simpler, cheaper, and noisier, And a benefit only to those in a hurry to ‘PLAY’ TRAINS.
Cork is about the cheapest single product you can buy for your RR. (I use HO on top of 'O’gauge for double profile + I have sound). I’ve also used Homosote and Tru-Scale wood, so perhaps I’m predjudiced.
I use Woodland Scenincs trackbed over cork. This is mainly because it’s easier for me to find. As far as I’m concerned, it works great. Of course there’s the mountain…
By the way, [#welcome]
I use roadbead track, but my yard is all cork. Cork is awesome for ballasting
does anyone have any experience with AIM’s instant roadbed?