what did you use . and why???
thanks
ray
Most use cork, but I use Woodland Scenics Foam Track-Bed and I am very happy with it.
Very flexible, tapered edges to facilitate ballasting, and easy to re-use if you you need to.
Rich
I use Homabed - a little more expensive than cork or the W/S foam stuff, but it does not crumble with age(cork) or compress like the foam stuff. A friend used VinylBed/FlexxBed and likes it. They all work well if laid with care.
Jim
none. I model a shortline with a car float that has been in operation for over 150 years, there is no ballast profile in the yard and near the float which is the portion I model…
Use cork because that is the only roadbed i have only heard of.
I will concede that Jim makes a good point about Woodland Scenics Track-Bed compressing if you are not careful. If you glue your track down on the foam roadbed, no problem. If you nail it like I do, you have to be careful because nailing the track down too far will compress the foam, causing hunps and dips where you don’t want them, pull the rails closer together out of gauge, and other assorted bad things. So if you use the Woodland Scenics Track-Bed, be careful in working with it.
Rich
I use the foam WS roadbed.
I read about cork drying out and cracking, and thought the foam would be quieter.
I use sheet foam in black or gray from the craft supply store {AC Moore} to do large areas like the yard.
I carve mine out of thin extruded foam insulating board (sold as fan-fold underlayment - used under vinyl and metal house siding.) Here in the dessicated desert cork is a non-starter - it dries up and crumbles - on a layout being built for (hopefully) 30+ years of service.
My right-of-way, from the tops of the risers up:
- Cookie cut plywood.
- Layer of latex caulk, whatever color is cheapest the day I buy it.
- Extruded foam roadbed.
- Layer of latex caulk, grey.
- Permanent track template - card stock sealed with grey paint.
- Layer of latex caulk, grey.
- Flex track or (for hand-laid specialwork) wood ties.
Shims to compensate for different tie thicknesses go between the roadbed and the track template. Shims for superelevating curves likewise if the entire structure cannot be tilted.
Spikes for hand-laid specialwork (one on each side of each rail at each tie) go through the medium balsa ties and the cardstock, into the foam roadbed. The card stock and ties provide lateral stability, while the card stock and layers of caulk hold them vertically.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I use Homabed on all three decks, love it, have used it for many years.
Bob
WS Foam with caulk. Why? All of the reasons stated above.
I’ve tried just about everything out there. Cork, extruded foam, homasote, Upson board, asphalt shingles,that gooey insta-roadbed stuff and I always come back to cork.
I use the foam WS roadbed in the roll also, easy to use and a lot less noise then cork, at least for me. And do not nail it down use the foam tack glue foam WS
I use flex atop cork atop Homasote®.
Why do I use that? I don’t have the slightest idea! It is admittedly overkill but I had a friend who built his roadbed that way and when I started building my first HO-Scale layout after retiring from military service in 1978 I picked it up. I’m too stupid . . . . . . . . . . or hardheaded perhaps . . . . . . . . . . to do it any other way I suppose.
Straight Homasote on top of either plywood or foam. I like the combo for sectional, flex, and handlaid track - Homasote works regardless. I have used it in both 3 rail O and HO. I have found Upson Board to be an acceptable, but definitely 2nd choice, substitute. I have used cork 3 times, and was stupid for doing so the last 2. It dries out and crumbles after a few years, in my experiences.
Some HOn3 folks in Northern California lay their track on door skin on top of foam, and swear by the combo. I may try that as an experiment one of these days.
Fred W
Hello, I used cork roadbed on my last layout at the suggestion of a local hobby shop proprietor. The layout is gone and sadly so is the hobby shop. The small table top layout lived in my non climate controlled garage for nearly 22 years and when I tore it down early last year the cork didn’t appear to be crumbling, maybe that was because I brushed it with a heavy coat of Matt Medium after gluing it down to the plywood with Elmers. Maybe all cork roadbed isn’t created equal. If I go with cork again I’ll certainly attempt to find something less expensive than Matt Medium for a sealer.
regards, Peter
I used cork on the first layout and nailed it to the plywood underneath. I also nailed the track to the cork. On the current layout, I have extruded (pink) insulating foam as the base, so no nails. I’m using WS foam and foam friendly adhesive (whatever’s on sale or for sale at HD or Lowe’s) applied with a caulk gun. Without nails, I have no compression issues which can happen with cork, as well. Track is applied to the WS with the same adhesive, but not under every tie, and very thinly, or it oozes up around the tie.
To answer the question about cork crumbling, it seems there are brands that that will happen to (thats why I stick with midwest, no problem and some is 20 years old).
I’ve always used cork however for my new layout that’s well underway ,I tried WS foam with adhesive caulk. The WS is easy to work with and so far I’m well satisfied.