My lastest method for simulating paved roads is to simply cover the road surface with a even layer of Woodland Scenics fine cinders ballast. Has anyone else tried this? What do y’all think of this idea? Is it worth my time and effort? Thanks.
Asphalt roads aren’t that bumpy. If you want to use WS fine cinders, I’d suggest sanding it afetr it’s dried to get a smoother (and more realistic) surface. Remember, asphalt roads aren’t black for long, so the grayish color you’ll end up with after sanding will look more realistic.
For asphalt roads, I prefer joint compound.
i used .030" Evergreen Styrene sheets for my roads. i painted my concrete roads Gull Gray and used charcoal to dull the road centers. and flat black for asphalt roads and parking lots. on the concrete road i painted flat black on the joints to simulate “tar” thst seeps through on hot summer days especially here in the south.then i used yellow and white pin sripe for the lines as needed. and using the styrene made it easier for grade crossings.
Hear, hear!
Styrene for model roads works well!
See: http://siskiyou.railfan.net/model_rod.html for construction details.
I’ve used fine cinders ballast for asphalt parking lots, but not for roads.
For parking lots (or driveways) I think it works pretty well. I roll out the cinders with a heavy metal cylinder while the glue is still wet to provide a very even surface. It may not be good enough for roads, but it certainly seems to match what I’ve seen in asphalt driveways and parking lots.
Woodland Scenics makes a road kit that works pretty well. It is a variant of hydrocal and has foam tape to act as a barrier. You pull a squeegie like device down the road with the edges of the squeegie riding on the foam. Then you can paint it to suit.
One of of my modules, I used the system but I kicked it up a notch as the road I built was banked and twisted.
I made a form:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/31%20Preparing%20for%20road.jpg
I filled the road area with hydrocal:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/32%20Road%20poured.jpg
The opposite side of abutment:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/33%20Back%20side%20of%20bridge%20abutment%20after%20road%20pour.jpg
The right shoulder poured:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/36%20Right%20side%20of%20road%20shoulder%20poured.jpg
The left shoulder poured:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/37%20Left%20side%20of%20road%20shoulder%20poured.jpg
The road and shoulder painted:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/38%20Road%20painted%20and%20shoulder%20painted%20brown.jpg
I hope this gives you some ideas.
I’m trying foam core as an experiment. I thought that the height would enable me to model drainage ditches more easily. I’ve yet to carve the sides, so right now it’s a bit crude. The smooth paper of the foam core will I think look great painted faded asphalt grey in N.
I haven’t tried this technique on a road per se, but on the old layout it worked quite well for simulating a paved parking lot in the area of a TOFC ramp.
Somewhere I had acquired a bag of grey, Z-scale ballast. I mixed it with white glue to an almost spackle consistency, and carefully spread it on the area using a putty knife. I don’t remember now, but I don’t even think it needed sanding, but as I said I carefully spread it on.
Then I spray painted it flat black with a 99 cent can of Wal-Mart spray paint. I took a drill bit and made a slight depression by hand for a manhole cover detail part I had previously picked up at a train show/swap meet in the areal. I took a black permanent marker and drew in a couple cracks and imperfections. Then I weathered it all using chalk and very dilute, earth colored washes. I think it turned out GREAT to the point where I am planning to use it again in the future on the new layout.