I am building my first layout and have a 13x15 room framed out I was wondering what would be needed
for electricity. I have room in my pannel for 2 breakers I was thinking one for overhead lighting one for
layout power . Any input on average amp draw of a layout this size will help.I would rather run the right size
wire and breakers now while every thing is open so any suggestions would help. Thanks
I would split the power with 1/2 the room lights and 1/2 the outlets for the railroad on each circuit. The lights should not draw a great deal of power and should a breaker trip you will not be in total darkness. Also if you have the power to outlets and the railroad “down stream from the light switches” when you turn out the lights you also turn off everything in the layout room and have a visual indicator as well.
Volts times amps = watts. Your volts will be 110. Your watts will be listed on the things you will plug in to the outlets and on your light fixtures. I would think that 2 twenty amp circuits would be fine for your operation. Florescent lights will use less power and generate less heat than incandescent bulbs of similar value.
Remember the great rule of electricity, every electrician is a potential ground. So if you are in any way unsure of what you are doing spend the money on a professional. It may prevent a fire that could cost far more than the price of the electrician or injury to yourself.
Might be a good idea to check the local building codes about the wiring.
Rule 2 would be touching a live wire can get your attention: It might even hurt.
One nice feature that would be very easy to add is a ‘switched outlet’. By that I mean at least one outlet that powers on/off with the lights. Preferable location would be near where your layout electronics go. This way when you leave the room and go lights off you know for sure the layout is turned off. You can also use this outlet for your soldering iron and be assured it’s off when the you leave the room and turn off the lights.
Lance
Layout construction, design, and track plan books: http://www.shelflayouts.com/bookstore.htm
Your layout will not use much power at all. However, if you’re like most of us, you will end up with a lot of different items plugged into the wall. I have a power supply for my DCC system, but then there are several 12-volt supplies for layout lighting. The Walthers traffic light controller, for some reason, wants 18 volts. I run my Atlas switch machines and turntable from an old train tranformer, mostly, but I’ve got a small 12-volt supply for a few of them with indicator lights on the control panel. Some neon-like signs want 4.5 volts, while others run on 3. 9 volts serves my Tortoise machines. Kadee electromagnets have a 16-volt supply, but an older model has its own dedicated 12-volts.
This means a hodge-podge of wall-warts and plugs. I have managed to get these on to only two outlet strips, but depending on how you distribute things, you may need more. Yes, a switched outlet to turn the whole thing on and off would be very nice.
Consider air conditioning and space heaters, too. My train room is a comfortable part of the house, so heat is included, but there’s a separate room air conditioner. Make sure that’s on its own circuit, and do the same for any electric heaters if you use them. When these high-wattage devices kick in, the power dip will affect your layout’s power.
I personally like dimmers for my room lighting, so that I can have nice bright lights while working but control the range of illumination for operating. My dimmers were installed before compact flourescent lights came out. Conventional CFLs don’t work with most dimmers, so be aware that you may be stuck with either the high-priced dimmable CFLs or old incandescent bulbs if you use dimmers.
If you’re planning to do the wiring yourself and are not a licensed electrician, you need to at least get a copy of your local building code and study it to determine if there are any unique local requirements above and beyond those of the National Electrical Code.
A DIY electrical project that subsequently results in a house fire because you did not comply with the NEC or local requirements as determined by the fire department can invalidate your homeowner’s insurance.