Greetings,
Beginning my initial investigation on adding a roundhouse (and turntable) to my next layout. Curious to hear thoughts about Walthers vs CMS CMR? I know the latter is more expensive. Is it worth saving one’s pennies for?
Thanks,
Tom
I believe you mean CMR.
Isn’t the big difference the Walthers TT comes in 2 sizes and are almost just dropin while the CMR turntables come in 4 sizes and are kits?
Peter
CMS? Do you mean CMR - Custom Model Railroads?
That is what I have, well worth the extra money in my view. I have the 135’ version.
I upgraded mine with etched brass power hoop and railings from Bowser, which I don’t think are available any more.
The CMR turntable is a kit that takes some patience, and it does not include an indexing system. I think the motor offering is the same as mine, it is just a slow speed motor with a direction switch, and another switch for Run/Jog.
So you line it up by just bumping the motor after you get it close - that’s how they did it on the prototype.
I also have the CMR roundhouse, two kits to build 12 stalls. I have not built that yet.
Lining it up manually works fine if you are reasonably close to it. Other wise you may need indexing.
Mechanically the CMR unit is much more heavy duty than any plastic drop in RTR/kit turnatable I have seen.
Sheldon
Sorry, fellas. Yes, CMR is what I meant…
These turntables and detail kits are still available as well. Very popular back in the day.
http://www.diamond-scale.com/default.htm
And they have parts that would be a good upgrade to the CMR unit.
http://www.diamond-scale.com/products__arches_trucks_cabs.htm
Sheldon
I have the original Walthers 130’ non-DCC turntable. Bought it in 2005 and it is still running flawlessly.
I also have the Walthers Roundhouse, 9 stalls in all. It is a perfect fit for the Walthers turntable.
Rich
I had the Walther’s 110 foot non-DCC turntable. Had one issue with the control board that Walther’s replaced for free. Other than that, I’ve been very happy with it. Paired it with one of the Walther’s roundhouses (not the modern one, the other one) and it serves my needs well.
My decision was to go with niether one of those two options. I furtunately scrounged a couple of old Bowser turntables in good unused condition. These have a very rugged design and my previous one worked very well for years.
Of the two you mentioned, I would go with CMR. There have been too many stories of problems with newer Walthers turntables for me to be comfortable with one.
I chose the Walthers “Modern” roundhouse. I want 16 stalls on my roundhouse, and this was the one that was readily available with what I needed.
If I was going to build a four to six stall roundhouse, I would have chosen a different model.
The craftsman kit by South River Model Works would have been my number-one choice for a smaller roundhouse.
-Kevin
I have never had a problem with the original RTR Walther turntable, for a roundhose I used a Vollmer because it was a bit more relistic than the others at the time, of couse I did some changes as it was not American based but those changes were mainly omiting details.
I went with the Walthers RH and TT. The look of the RH was closest to what I wanted and the TT was ready to go. With the glacial speed at which my layout progresses, I have to pick my battles as to what I want to scratch build, kit build, or drop and drive. The TT has been flawless for years.
I am in no position to recommend one based on my own knowledge and/or experience, but I am really happy with what I have.
Tom,
What size turntable are you considering? Does it need indexing?
Sheldon
Sheldon,
It has to be a least 120’ to turn my 115.5’ Niagara with the PT-4 tender. Every other NYC locomotive in my roster is less than that. (My NYC 2-6-6-2 Mallet is only ‘86 long.) IIRC, CMR has a 120’ & 135’ TT; Walthers has their 130’.
Tom
Tom, what size are considering?
Mine is 90’. These things can eat lots of real estate. I can get a Hudson on it, however, 2-10-4s are too big. Someone on FB mentioned that in the real world to get a loco into the RH that didn’t fit on the TT you could just straight-shot it across the TT into a stall (why didn’t I think of that[D)]). So for every approach track to the TT you can get a larger engine inside. So I settled on the 90’
If I want to turn a larger engine, I have a balloon track around the RH and can use that, which I also use to turn whole trains around.
Here is a 2-10-4 with its bum out. Straight shot in and it is warm for the night.
Not sure why they are described as differen in length, but the Walthers 130’ and the CMR 135’ are basically the same length.
Sheldon
Tom, I totally get if you have your heart set on a 130’, but if they are available and you are open to them, the Walther’s 110’ will fit a Niagara. Same reason they had the overhang at the rear of the prototype tender makes them work on shorter turntables on our model railroads too. Here is my BLI Niagara w/ PT4 tender on my 110’ Walthers turntable. It’s snug, but it fits.
Niagara/PT4 on 110’ turntable by Michael, on Flickr
Niagara/PT4 on 110’ turntable by Michael, on Flickr
Niagara/PT4 on 110’ turntable by Michael, on Flickr
A pair of F units will fit on it as well, but a pair of E units or Alco PA’s will not.
Brent,
As mentioned, at least 120’ for the TT. Same for the RH.
A 6-stall RT should fit decently on a 36" wide shelf with an ~3" buffer off each corner. The RH would be placed down near one end of the shelf so that the RH and TT would face toward the opposite end. This would allow for access into the fueling terminal and one end of the double-ended yard.
Still designing those two areas. Just started reading two MR guides that I had packed away (“Freight Yards” and “Locomotive Servicing Terminals”) to better understand those operations. I have a few other Kalmbach books on layout design but want to read these first.
Tom
Thanks for that bit of information, Mike. Good to know!
Tom
Hi there. I went with the pre-assembled Walthers 90’. I had no space for the wider one, so my longer locos run straight through on a track beside the roundhouse. It can handle HO and HOn3 - I added a dual-gauge strip of track on top of it. it adds a lot of action to my somewhat smallish layout.
The turntable runs very well, indexed with DCC. I’ve read that the assembled model is better than the kit, but I don’t know if that information is still up to date. I only need to calibrate it from time to time, which is a one push button operation.
IMG_20230221_103543 , on Flickr
Simon
While I know nothing about roundhouses, I appreciate a moderator starting a forum topic.
I’m a user-mod so I use and contribute to the forum - just like everyone else. [:D]