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| The Box (Click image for larger view) |
I filed down the metal castings first to get them cleaned up a bit. Then I cemented the metal casting sides together with Goo and now they are drying in my magnetic gluing jig. I have six of these kits that will eventually make it into the bottom foundation of my 6-stall roundhouse.
You know…I have cut myself a few times while working on the layout, but mostly with benchwork construction. Actually, that is a paint spill on the magnetic jig, and I think it was from a jar of boxcar red.
Also, I have continued to update this thread topic on my own web site pages, you can find it in the Modeling Techniques page linked under the Structures heading.
Ryan, very intersting and it looks good. The only question I have is about the height of the styrene between those two bay tracks. I take it that you have made it somewhat less than the tread on the rail tops?
I am using the Evergreen .030 sheet styrene for the final concrete floor between the bay tracks. And I find that the top of the styrene is just below the top rail height, I don’t have an exact measurement, but I do want one of those nice digital measuring calipers eventually.
I got this idea from the October 2007 MR issue and the “Scenery Step by Step” article by Jim Hediger and Cody Grivno Detail and weather an engine shop, p. 38-41. I might say that it was another one of those just in time MR articles
It was just that, the way the image shows it to me, the styrene is clearly very close to the two rails at each extremity, and that would make its overall height quite important to ensure pilots, MU hoses, even our somewhat wider than true scale wheels don’t get lifted or snagged by the styrene. I used plaster at the outer edge of my bays because my setup requires the house to be set back from the pit ledge by about 2"…so I needed a “concrete” apron of sorts to keep the gap from looking goofy. I found that I overestimated the clearances of locomotive parts by quite a long shot, and had to do a lot of sanding and cleaning out of the flange paths inside the flextrack to keep things moving and making contact with the powered rails all the way into the bays.
Thanks for the heads up! I have not cut the inside sheets as of yet, the one sheet that is showing is on the outside edge of the rails and should not present a problem. Being HO scale, the inside the rails sheet will be cut 9/16" wide to fit the area between the rails and should leave enough area or gap for the wheel flange(s) to clear. I will be working on this step this weekend and will provide an updated report on my findings.
Oh, and I like the sub-topic thread of humor that has taken a life of it’s own! [:D]
Roundhouse roof removal and cleanup ~ Sunday, December 2, 2007
Removed the cardstock roof from the roundhouse subroofing structure.
Roundhouse ready to remove the roof.
Roundhouse upside down.
Roof removed and roundhouse upright.
Roof unattached from roundhouse.
Cleaned up the dried 30+ year old glue from the card stock and the structure. Using an X-acto knife I gingerly cut the seam where the cardstock roof material met with the metal roofing supports. Some areas had a heavy application of what appers to have been Elmers while glue. The dried glue required much work to be removed without damaging either the cardstock or the roof supports. A very thin layer of the cardstock was compromis
Fantastic job SilverSpike. I am watching closely since I will be starting my turntable/roundhouse after the holidays. I don’t think I will be buying ten inspection pits at $16.50 each. I guess I will build them myself.
I am doing a lot of thinking on the elevations for roundhouse floor so it will line up with the outside yard and turntable height. I might try the Stryene strips.
Glad you like the series. My next steps will be to paint and weather the roof once all the masking tape shingles are applied to all the roof sections. Then I am going to clean and re-paint the roundhouse structure and then weather it also. The plan is to attach the strip magnets to the underside of the roofing cardstock so that it will keep a relative tight grip to the structure, but also be able to be lifted off for better interior and detail viewing.
Then I will start building all the little details that will surround the interior of the structure and exterior of the surrounding grounds.
Silver Spike, I too have been following your progress as well. I’ll be starting my own roundhouse soon and will be adding the same inspection pits you have.
The Stewart Hobbies Inspection Pits are in stock again at Walther’s. When I purchased my 6 awhile ago that depleated the then current supply, glad to see that they have some more in stock again.
Thanks for the comments, and I will continue to post updates both here and on my website too. Here is the link to my Roundtable and Roundhouse Renovation page.
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