I’m assembling an old kit with rub on transfers instead of decals. The local train store owner told me I would probably ruin the model by using the transfers. You have to rub so hard that it dents the wood. Has anyone had any experience with these on wooden models, or have any special tricks? It’s a very unusual car & I cannot locate decals. Thanks
Most of the ones that I have used didn’t require very much pressure, so if you’re careful, there shouldn’t be any problem. However, a few did require some pressure, don’t know why, maybe age?
Use the proper tool. In a pinch, I once used a golf tee that I had sanded the tip to a blunt, smooth end. If you have enough extra trasfers on the same sheet that you are going to use, test some on a piece of wood similar to your model to see how they work.
The biggest problem that I have had was with relatively large transfers. For me it was very hard to keep one end lined up with the other end or to avoid a "crack " down the middle. Good luck.
Some of the older dry transfers can be helped by first warming them next to a light bulb. They are printed on a waxy coating on the paper, and the warming can soften the wax so the lettering comes off better.
Bob Boudreau
These are VERY old, probably 30 yrs. I’ll try the warming. Do they stick to a glossy or flat finish best? I was thinking of using either glosskote or dullkote & applying them when it dried to the touch but not completely cured. Wish it was plaslic !!
Dry transfers seem to prefer a flat finish. I don’t see much advantage to applying them before the clear coat has completely cured, though.
Dry transfers don’t have that clear film holding the decal together so there is no need to gloss-coat the model before applying. You might want to overspray some dull-cote after they are applied to seal them though.