Well. I started another crazy project. Im putting a motor in a boxcar. I figure i can use it to pull longer trains while looking like I have less engines. But, anyway. What kind of rubber bands should i use to power the axels and where can i get some. By the way, I know Gears or shafts would be better. I dont want a different kind of driveline I just want to know where to get rubber bands[:p].
JPM335,
If memory serves me correctly, you could use those little “rubber” bands that dentists use when someone has retainers, I used to replace my old Athearn Hi-F bands with these many , many moon ago. I image that a call to your dentist would get you a free hand-full or a place where you could purchase them. You have a good idea but why not double head as the prototype would do or if you have a grade you are trying to take “X” number of cars up , double the hill (take about half the cars up to the top and return for the balance) and add a bit of operation (fun) to your session?
Doug
Dentist rubber bands are too short for my application. Basically its an athearn motor mounted on its side inside a 40’ boxcar with holes drilled in the floor to put rubber band to the axle. A little longer than a dentist rubber band would be better.
Wot about an o-ring for sealing shafts, from an engineering supply shop?
Ken.
Here’s a couple of suggestions.
Athearn part # 90101 drive belts(rubber band)
A powered P1K F3 B unit chasis under an Athearn 50’ express reefer . Snug fit and works like a charm.
You would place the powered car midway or there abouts to split the load and even out the all over drive.
I used this system when I use to run longer steam freights up a 3.1 grade and I couldn’t
afford a second steamer to double head.
Without addressing the merits of your idea, only the implementation, I’d take a string and figure out what length/diameter you need, and then go to an auto parts place and get a thin ‘O’ ring or two to try. Do not get one they have to cut and glue, because the glue will eventually fail from the flexing, and it makes the ring ‘O’ stiffer at the joint; get a new molded one piece ‘O’ ring. I’d allow some vertical adjustment in your motor mounting to allow for taking up slack as it develops.
Medical latex tubing is also very tough, very flexible stuff, and you could cut a slice from some of that if you could find the right diameter.
Good luck.
Are you taking into account that Athearn rubber band powered models had special wheelsets with large diameter axles? The ones on their RDCs had a rubber like axle. I imagine this was so the rubber band would not slip too much. Speaking of slipping, if you intend to have the powered boxcar help with the train load, it won’t have much power - under a heavy load the band(s) will slip. You would need two bands per truck, one for each axle too. If not the truck will twist sideways.
It would be much better to power a non engine with a single geared power truck from some of the older cheaper engines. These were motor and truck all in one piece. Just a thought.
Bob Boudreau
Hmm…wouldn’t a rubber band on the axle of a boxcar truck yank the truck up against the bottom of the boxcar–unless it was screwed in so tightly it couldn’t turn?
The rubber bands would not be that tight, and that’s why I mentioned using two, one for each axle. Athearn used this system on their RDCs, Hustler, older F-7s, GP-9’s and I think on one steam engine. Thier rotary snow plow has the rotary blade turned by rubber bands on the front truck.
I’ve used regular rubber bands on my models, the ones that come from stationery stores.
Bob Boudreau
That’s an interesting note that Athearn might still stock rubber bands for their older band driven units.
Hobby Surplus Sales use to have in their catalog replacement band drives for Athearn. A company made these bands and were sold in very inexpensive boxes of 24 each. The bands were actually an improvement over the Athearn and lasted much longer. If Athearn can get a Hustler, F7 and plow to operate as well as they did on band drive, I’m sure anything is possible.
What about the NWSL “Magic Carpet” or “PDT” drivelines. Would they fit in a frieght truck?
Lindsay use to make a fully self contained power truck and sold it under a very catchy name. It was so catchy that I can’t remember what it was called. Anyone? Does “SPUD” ring a bell? Anyway, maybe the NWSL is making something similar. It’s basically two power driven axles that can be used under anything, and the wheels are the pick-ups. No wiring, nothing, just attach and go.
Yep, thats pretty much what it is, just wondering if i can fit it in an HO frieght truck
GO to Railserve site under classifieds/trains
Somebody has them for sale 48 for $1.50 includes postage
e mail address is extra5264east@juno.com
good luck
The “SPUD” (Self Propelled Underfloor Drive) was made by Tenshodo, and marketed by Pacific Fast Mail I believe. I have several under different pieces of rolling stock. I don’t think they have been available for some time. When I bought them they could be had for around Cdn $25.00, the similar NWSL “PDT” trucks (Preety Darn Tiny) were about Cdn $65-75 at the same time. I have one of those somewhere too.
Bob Boudreau
Bob, where did you install the PDT? will it fit in a frieght truck?
Bob,
Thanks for the info on the Spud. My memory is starting to be jogged awake.
Walt
My experience with the underfloor power trucks was that their wheelbase was just a little too long to fit into a typical freight truck, but that might not be so with the new NWSL.
Under an Athearn RDC, worked great!
Bob Boudreau
PDT’s and SPUDs might be a bit large for a freight truck–I think the smallest had a 7’ wheelbase, suitable for passenger equipment but not freight. You might try a NWSL “Flea”, though–they are even smaller than the PDT’s, and offer a complete gearing system.