What are the techniques to properly run-in new locomotives? I model in n scale using mostly Kato and some Atlas modern diesels.
With modern plastics and manufacturing tolerances. break-in running is mostly about ensuring everything is running right out of the box. If it checks out, then go ahead and run it, I say.
If you do have something that specifically seems to call for break-in, like brass stuff or with some mfg’s recommendations, then set up your continuous run test track, circl it at varying speeds for an hour or two, the turn it around and run the otherr way.
Note that if you are talking about “new” old stock locos, it’s always good to check the drivetrain for old grease. They stuff tends to harden up and get gummy. Clean that out first and relube with a good plastic-compatible grease before you do any testing or operation.
At one time a good break in running was needed. With the coming of the super smooth drives in N Scale around 20 years ago its no longer necessary.
Much like the modern automobile, running in per say isn’t really needed any more. But with anything from China, I double check that the truck gear boxes have grease in them and that everything runs smoothly. Unfortutaly getting to the motor to give it a drop of oil on each end bearing is a bit more difficult than the simpler engines of yore. Most of my engines I have left are Atlas with the Kato drive, no running in needed as they run flawlessly out of the box. I do have a nice Athearn GP38-2 shell that I am needing a power chassis for still. Mike
My way of breaking in new locomotives is to run them around on the club layout at a show and let the public see them.
I like to lube them first if needed then run then 30 minutes in forward then reverse. Mostly looking for issues from the factory.
As has been said, most of the newer stuff doesn’t need a long run in period but you should make sure the lubrication is fresh. However there are exceptions like with some of the powered trucks available. I have used a couple of BullAnt drives from Hollywood Foundry in Australia and Geoff Baxter, the owner, clearly recommends a break in period of two hours at various speeds and in both directions.
Best to read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Dave
The traditional advice was to break an engine in by running it upside down reversing directions every 20 minutes or so. Perhaps that was a hold over from the model steam era where not only were the bearings on the drivers sometimes a bit rough, but you didn’t want to learn about loose side rod screws or valve gear rivets with the missing parts “somewhere” (but where?) on the layout itself, or worse yet have the engine bind up while you weren’t paying attention and perhaps damage the motor. Better to have the engine be in one place.
Again that was the traditional advice – for the traditional models.
Heh - those of us of a certain age remember the break in rules for when you bought a new automobile: never drive at the same speed for more than a few minutes, don’t go over 50 mph, and change the oil before you hit 1000 miles. Those days are gone too.
Dave Nelson
IT all depends on the manufacturer.
Old cars from the 50s adn 60s were ‘rough machined’ and depended on running the engine for a thousand miles or so to polish the pistons and stuff so that they worked smoothly. Today’s cars are made to exacting tolerances and need no break-in period.
So it is with locomotives 1:1 or 1:87 some do and some do not.
You pay more for the better ones.
ROAR
Ah the good old days, don’t build em like they used to( locos or cars), good thing too
Thanks, that was helpful.