I bought at an Ebay auction an used Proto 2000 SW800 loco. Testing it I found that it runs well backwards but it does not run forwards. Can anyone help me giving me an idea where the problem is?
Thanks
afaria
Maybe the previous owner incorrectly installed diodes for directional lighting? Or (I’m not into DCC), is it possible that an incorrectly installed or malfunctioning decoder might cause this? If I were in your place, I’d remove the shell from the locomotive frame and see if there’s a decoder installed inside. Remove the decoder and try the loco. If the problem persists, I’d try connecting power wires directly to the motor to see if it is OK. Maybe even disconnect all the rest of the electronics from the motor.
Then if it’s still not turning both ways, probably the problem is the brushes which should be replaceable, or one of the poles has burned in which case you need a new motor (or a used one from train shows…)
Good luck,
Oliver
Thanks Oliver. I’ll try to check all the things according to your advices.
afaria
Problem is solved. I removed the shell and put the loco on the track again. It started running well both back and forward. There is no decoder inside. I presume that the wires sticked inside the shell for lighting purposes were doing some kind of a bad contact. Sorry for bothering you with this, Oliver.
afaria
I am glad to hear your problem was solved so easily. I have 3 Frisco E8/9 units, all Proto 2000. So I take notice when Proto 2000 is mentioned. [;)]
I have a similar problem with the SW9/1200 which I purchased new yesterday. It runs extremely smoothly backward but stutters in the forward mode at switching speed. I tried afaria’s solution but even after opening and closing the shell the annoying stuttering remains.
Before I try to start unsoldering the diode printed circuit board does anyone have any other suggestions?
Kurt
I have an sd-9 and the drive shaft’s are a place to give a good looking over check that all the plastic clips are seated correctly
[8)]
K-
I have seen posts from the Atlas forum that some of GPs suffer from split axles gears.
They recommend, turn the loco over, remove the cover plate, from the bottom
of each truck and examine. If cracked or broken LL will replace with axles with wheels already assembled.
While inside the truck look at the bronze bearings. See if you can spin them using a small screwdriver or toothpick. They should not spin.
If the bearings spin. you will see a silver’ finger’ in each corner of the truck, outboard of the bearing.
Use a needlenose pillars to slightly bend them.
Also LL uses gobs of grease unnecesarily in their drives.
I never tried this procedure, but it should give you some direction.
The shell’s on backwards?
[:o)]
That’s so simple you’re probably right.
The shell was not on backwards. Having reread Oliver’s post I decided to jumper the printed circuit board. It worked! I now have a switcher running smoothly both forward and reverse, albeit without directional lighting - that’s to be solved another day.
I appreciate all the comments on this thread.
Kurt
Split axle gears are common on some of the P2K units. Fortunately they’re very easy to swap out.
Always a good idea to buy a few extra axle gears to keep in your repair/supply box.
10-4!