I can only imagine the reaction that will come to this post, but here goes. I have found the perfect color for the locos that I am going to paint, the Rustoleum oil-based Hunter Green. Does anyone know if the plastic will be eaten up by the paint?
I have used Rust O Leum on some cars in N scale with no problem but I would try it on a scrap shell just to make sure…Cox 47
Good advice.
I don’t know what the Rustoleum paint would do to plastic, but the color Hunter Green is also available as a water-based acrylic paint from Apple Barrel, sold by Wal-mart and craft stores.
I am going to use a water based mask to mask the plastic windows, so an oil based paint is required, otherwise, I will have green windows. I prefer the water-based paints, but it is not possible in this case.
Works fine! I use Rustoleum flat brown to paint my track before ballasting. I use Krylon Camo Earth brown for a base coat on all my rolling stock trucks and loco side frames.
Make sure it’s compatable with any dull coat you’ll using first. And use light coats so you don’t mess up any details.
Good point on the dull coat. Completely escaped me.
[#ditto] I second the light coats recomendation. I used Semi-Gloss Black for a tank car re-hab project, turned out really well. I also use it on all the steel weights in the kits I assemble, as a rust preventative in the humid Florida environment.
Mark Gosdin
I should have responded in the previous post to the thin coat issue. I have always believed that the thinner the coat the better.
I use Rustoleum purple on my Atlantic Coast Line locos and get compliments. Any spray can can deliver too much paint. Rustoleum seems worse than most. Just be careful with it.
Actually I was planning on thinning it w/mineral spirits at about 5% and using a hand brush.
Hand paint could cause crazing of the plastic surface, Test on the inside of the shell first. Hand painting takes longer to dry than spraypainting and gives the solvents in the paint more time to react with the plastic.
I don’t understand your comment about the mask. Once the mask is dry it shouldn’t matter what type of paint you use.
WHY? I’ve tried spraying some into a cup and painting my turnouts. It dries way too fast and leaves brush strokes real bad. Spray can paint doesn’t act like bottle paint when you use a brush.
The Rust-O-Leum paint will not hurt the shell. I’ve been using it for years. If it was going to cause any damage, I would’ve noticed it by now.
loathar and modelmaker -
I am planning on using MicroMask for the mask. It is water based and a water based paint will dissolve the mask, hence the need for an oil based paint. The MicroMask will mean that I don’t have to remove the plastic windows.
As far as the paint is concerned, I was not planning on a spray can but was planning on the canned paint. I do have an old shell, and am not terribly concerned about any reaction with the plastic, any more, but I do intend to test paint with a brush on the old shell and then will make a final decision. As long as the brush is of a high quality and the surface is clean and prepped properly, I am assuming that there should not be any issue with brush marks, etc.
I thought you were talking about the spray cans.[D)] I’ve used some canned oil base paint in my airbrush before. I think the key is going to be finding the right thinner. I’ve never found mineral spirits to be good for more than cleaning brushes. (it’s pretty oily) You can always E-mail Rustoleum and ask what they recommend.
If your going that route, Home Depot or similar stores can custom mix a quart of what ever color you want. You just need a color swatch about the size of a quarter. I did this to paint a couple of CP Rail F units. Gave them the cab off a GP to match.
loathar -
The Hunter Green right out of the can is the color I want. I’m painting three locos green and white for my RR in a scheme approximating the red and white scheme of the Soo Line, since I like that scheme. I am not modeling a prototype. Your point on the thinner is well taken. I’ll check the Rustoleum web site first.
[#ditto] I have used Rustoleum red-brown and yellow metal primers for painting brick colors on buildings for many years with no problems.
Thanks, everyone, for the information. With Jeffrey’s post, I became convinced that the paint would not harm the shell. G Paine, down East, sealed it. If anyone else is interested, I did a test on a portion of an old shell which was completely stripped down to the bare plastic. Thinned the paint with mineral spirits, supposedly acetone will also work, used a red sable brush and, two thin coats later, the light has to bounce off the paint job just right to see any brush strokes, and there aren’t many of those. Admittedly, there are a few spots, crevices like fan grates, which will require a bit of touching up with a very very very fine brush, but I believe it works.
Glad I could help.