I am reusing an old Atlas bridge from my first layout on my current layout. The Layout is HO and is a fictious branch line of the PRR in the early 1950’s. The bridge is a metal arch bridge.
I have the model repainted, laid the cross ties, track, guard rails, and guard timbers as close as I could get for PRR standards. Now it is time to weather the bridge.
I drybrushed rust paint onto the bridge the first time I used it but now I want to give the product Rust All, from Micro Mark, a try.
My question is how rusted should I make the bridge? Also, as a side question, what can I use to as bolt heads on the guard timbers?
I wanted a contrast between the bridge in serious need of a paint job and the work the painters were doing. Even though this bridge passes over water, a real railroad would be unlikely to let it get this bad. This bridge was done with Instant Rust, a product by Sophisticated Finishes available at craft stores.
Hi Christopher, Personally I prefer stippling Bragdon chalks on using alcohol as a wetting agent. Once the alcohol evaporates the effect is fairly realistic. How much you put on is up to you. It’s no secret I over-weather everything, but that’s to get more of the “fantasy” look. Dark colors first. Lighter the color the newer the rust. For me the Rust All just doesn’t give the same texture. Good luck!
My guess, and I have no knowledge about the PRR, is to keep the rust relatively minimal. In the old days railroads tended to have regular maintenance programs and kept the paint coating in reasonable shape. Part of this was to present a good public image. Today we see a lot more rust, but that is today’s situation, not that of the early 1950s that you are modeling.
A couple of factors have led to the change. Before repainting there is usually a need to strip off the old loose paint to prepare the surface. This used to be quite straightforward but current environmental regulations often require containment of all the debris to prevent it falling on the ground or into a river. So now there is significant extra cost for scaffolding, disposal of hazardous wastes and so on.
The other factor is that in many locations the rust is actually not a significant structural concern. Perhaps in another 50 years it will be thinning certain members that they need replacement but the bridge could well be obsolete by then for other reasons. The savings from not repainting it several times over that time period may well be great enough to pay for the repairs.
My reaction is that rust eats metal and eventually weakens it. Therefore, especially if you’re planning on a railroad bridge that is being heavily used, the railroad would keep the bridge in relatively good shape. For light ‘rust’, on my bridges, I usually give the bridge a light spray of ‘rust’ colored primer coat, and that’s BEFORE the final coat of black. That way, the bridge looks as if it’s been there a while, but it also looks as if it’s kept in quite good shape by the railroad.
Remember, steel bridges are EXPENSIVE! Both to build and to keep in good order. And railroads usually try to use them only as a last resort when there is no other way to cross either a canyon or a river. If a large earthen fill will do the job, then that’s the first option, not a steel bridge.
So I would say, unless you’re modeling a little used branch-line or a railroad that likes its equipment looking like a junkyard, go easy on the rust. A little goes a long, LONG way!
Thanks for the replies, and the links. I will look at taking it easy on the rust. The walk way and railings are next and then a bit of dirt and a coat of dull clear should finish this model. I will post a pic when it is done.
This bridge is really a fuctional bridge on my layout. It spans the doorway into the room and will be a duck under during operation. When not in use the bridge swings down to open the walkway. I wanted a bridge here and not just a plywood board with wood sides.
