One of my staple-end trucks has suddenly developed “open-itis” and I’m looking for a cure from the train-doctors on the forum. It is on one of my 3461 log dump cars. During the run, it suddenly opens.
At first, I thought it hit something on the track or the track was uneven or the car that it was attached to was the culprit. I tested on another track and with other cars. Same result.
Looks like the truck plate with the pin that goes up into the coupler is loose, that is, does not stay up close. There seems to be a tiny gap. Looks like as the truck plate drops, the coupler opens. (I hope that I am explaining it clearly)
What I’d like to know: Is there a simple solution or does the truck have to be replaced?
Unless I really want to uncouple the car, I just wire the coupler closed by wrapping it with picture hanging wire. I have even used a black twist-tie in a pinch.
I’ll try to talk you through this TrainDaddy. First remove the C-Clip that holds the truck to the car body. Once you have the truck off, you’ll need to use needlenose pliers to bend the 4-tabs that hold the coupler plate to the wheel axles… there’s 2 on each side of each wheel axle. You could just unbend 2 of these tabs on the axle closest to the knuckle coupler. But it might be easier to work on with the plate removed… try unbend one side, and then the other if necessary. When you get the coupler plate loose or completely removed, you’ll see a copper strip riveted to the coupler plate that has a slight curve/bend upward.
Here’s your problem… over the years this strip has lost some it’s strength. You’ll need a small screwdriver or a couple pairs of small needlenose pliers. You’ll want to prop each end of the copper tab up and then using the needlenose pliers, give it a slight downward bend. This will increase the pressure holding the coupler plate up and should solve your problem. Actually, you coupld probably just use one set of needlenose pliers… position them at the halfway point between the rivet holding the copper strip and the end that rests on top of the coupler plate and give a bend downward.
One other potential common problem you didn’t indicate is when the actual knuckle is loose from the truck frame. You can use larger pliers to squeeze the small tabs that help hold the knuckle to the frame.
Another real quick fix to any sort of coupler having this problem is to use a very small black rubber band. These are sold at department stores and even dollar stores in the girl’s hair section. You can find bags of 300 or 500 black small rubber bands for a dollar. Not only are these GREAT loads for an open gondola (they look like some kind of scrap or industrial rubber), but they work great for wrapping around the coupler and the armature, yet still allow uncoupling. And you hardly see them because they are so small and black
Brianel: Your “quick fix band” solution certaily sounds viable for the holidays. After Santa goes back to the North Pole and things settle down, I’m going to try to follow your “talk-through”. Thank you.
PS You “Forum” guys always come through. I learn so much and that makes this hobby as great as it is. Thanks, again.
If the lever is not fully into the coupler, this will be a problem. What you can do also is take a pair of needle nose pliers and tweek the lever upward so that it fits higher up into the coupler. It’s just lost some of it’s spring action to do it’s job correctly.
brianelO27 has the right idea on adjusting the coupler plate spring, but the truck does not have to come off, and you don’t have to unbend the coupler plate tabs from around the axles.
To get the plate off, carefully pry the truck side frames apart just enough to sneak the axles out of one side and the entire assembly will come out very easily. Make your repair(s) and clean up the truck nicely, and reverse the procedure to get the axles popped back in. This is how it was done at the factory.