Don’t know why, but I run the Proto 2000 S1 more than any other loco. And I don’t do any switching or yard work–well not that involves towing.
I guess you would say I use it as a mine detector for MOW at my club. I run it through the turnoouts to find dead spots, track anomolies, piano wire that sticks too high above the track, etc.
But I just love running it. It is the slowest locoI own. My daughter and I call him Speedy.
I also have a P2K S1. It’s a great little locomotive. It is slow, but it can pull a fair amount of rolling stock. It’s one of only two locomotives I own (the other is a Riv. 2-truck Heisler) that can handle the logging line on my layout, which has a helix with a 15" radius and 7% grade, so it works great on tight radii and steep grades.
Chip,
I probably run my P2K S1 more than I do my 2-8-2 Mike. The 2-8-2 is more interesting to watch visually but I still like the S1. What can you say - it’s cute! It’s also smooth and quiet and a work horse. I’ve pulled over 20+ cars of rolling stock and it keeps going. I glad you are enjoying it.
Tom
Dang you Tom! You got me addicted to TrainWorld Blowouts. I’ve exceeded my budget and resorted to using my credit card to get a Broadway PRR M1A 4-8-2. If I’m not careful, I’m going to be sleeping at the club.
Chip,
Hey, I take NO responsibility for your lack of restraint on spending! I only showed you where you could find a great switcher for a great price. (FYI - Just in case this should come in handy: Army cots work pretty well for “portable” bedding.)
Broadway Limited?!? Whoa! Now you’re dealin’ with some serious trains. Not that P2K’s are shabby. BLI makes some VERY nice locomotives. Come to think of it, I think I saw that 4-8-2 demoed at the hobby store a month or so ago. Wow! Nice loco! Came with sound and the detail was terrific! Will it come with Quantum Sound? I also saw their new NW2 switcher with QSI run yesterday. Very impressive!
Can’t quite justify one yet but …some day. Now, if I had kids then I probably would “rationalize” it more. Let me know how you like it.
Tom
S-1 for working the yards - making up a train, shuffling cars- what the REAL railroads do. Try a P2K GP-9 nex unless you want to try a BLI Alco ‘Alligator’.
I know about you pushers . You give us a taste…
That’s the one. It only comes in PRR and I am doing PRR at my club. (and no one else models PRR at my club). So when I saw $144.95…
Let’s see, uh, “But we can use it to haul groceries in from the car.”
If that doesn’t work try " But SpaceMouse’s wife let him have one."
But beware you might get the jumping off the bridge line.
I also bought the Proto S1, main reason being it was my first engine rebuild as an apprentice, was amazed at the 12 inch dia. pistons, but not the heavy parts related to it…LOL The protype was a very dependable locomotive. As well as the PK2 S1…John
I dunno if I should tell you this Chip…
My father-in-law just got one of those BLI M1A’s from Standard Hobby for $129.99.
It’s awesome! Turn the sound off and it runs quieter than some top quality diesels. Creeps like nothing else, and the sound is just icing on the cake. Walks away with a 24 car train, even with the caboose being one of those darn Proto2000 lighted ones where the pickup wipers are so stiff the car rolls like the brakes are set. Forwards and backwards through Atlas Code 83 trackwork (so much for Atlas switches being ‘junk’) and everything. Lucky for me I don’t model PRR so I’ not TOO tempted by these things, yet.
–Randy
I just added Standard Hobby to my Favorites list.
Trainworld
Standard Hobby
Discount Train
Walthers (on sale occasions)
are a few good sources for cheaper prices. (I know there are others, too.) When you’re looking to buy something specific, you just have to set your mind to shop around and check out each one of them to see who has the best price. On the rare occasion, sometimes it’s Walthers.
Tom
I have three Life-Like S-3s (same as S-1 but with AAR truck frames) equipped with decoders and I run them on the club layout. They run well, but Atlas ALCO switchers are better for pulling longer cuts of cars. I find the Life-Like ALCO switchers just a little too light for switching in a major classification yard.
I think a lot of my affection is that the S1 was my first non-toy engine (Not counting Lil Guy)
Actually my P2k S1 is the worst running switcher I have. The Atlas S2 and Stewart Vo660 and VO1000’s I have run 10 times better. The S1 won’t run at a consistent speed. It has some sort of contact issue. I haven’t had time to work on it. The sad part is its the only factory painted switcher I have for my road.
Dave H.
Dave,
Take a look at it because there’s something wrong with it. Mine runs flawflessly… You deserve to enjoy this terrific little switcher.
Tom
[#ditto]
My S1 runs GREAT. Just as nice as my Stewart DS4-4-1000.
–Randy
I got one of those roundhouse “critters” for christmas. It only pulls about 8 cars but MAN, it crawls like nothing ive ever seen! you can turn it on real slow in it will go about an inch every 30 seconds. Just amazing! Also a guy who runs at a local layout has 5 of them, he lashes them all together and can pull a pretty good size train. Not very prototypical but it sure does look neat. Only problem is since theyre so small sometimes they die on turnouts at low speed. But the flywheels usually keep it going. Nice detail on it too.
Really? I’ve heard varying reports about the Roundhouse critter–and I imagine that the prototype would have not been able to pull 8 cars under the best of condition! MU’ing four-wheel “critters” is a baroque but somehow appropriate thing…
We’ve all got our favorite locomotives that have a special place in our hearts. Mine happens to be my Rivarossi UP 4-8-4. I have it pull passenger trains and freight trains. It spots cars and pulls the MOW train. It’s truely my favorite workhorse.
About the P2K S1, is it DCC ready? If so, do you have to change those gosh-darned bulbs? (one thing I don’t like about P2K)
Jonathan,
Yes it is, but…you have to insulate the motor from the frame or you’ll fry the decoder. I believe the light bulb does NOT have to be changed but a resister does need to be soldered in place. Spacemouse just put in a decoder in his S1 so he or rrinker would be a good one to ask that question to.
Tom