I have a problem with some of my freight cars couplers sagging down lower than all of my other cars and my engines. Should I replace the sagging couplers, or is there something I can do to them, to stop the sagging? Any advice would be very appreciated. Thanks.
Aaron
DEPENDS on the couplers and coupler boxes you are using
In either case you will need a Kadee #205 coupler height gauge to start with.
AAron, the usual method is to make sure the coupler covers are tight. Following that, remove the covers and shim them with whatever works, maybe a very thin washer. I wish I could be more help but I have the same problem!
By the way, what scale are you in?
Are they sagging, with the coupler end lower than the mounting, or are they actually horizontal but just mounted too low? If they’re just low, the normal solution is to “jack the car up” by adding washers between the truck and the frame. If they sag, then the coupler box is either too big, or the cover isn’t on properly, or the shaft is too small for the round hole in the coupler. You can use a thin shim (even paper) to correct the box size, adjust the cover, or use a small bushing to mount the shaft better.
Can anyone tell me how to install Kadee whisker couplers in a Spectrum 4-4-0. The problem I have found is the Kadee coupler shaft is ( slightly) too thick. I have tied a number of remedies to no avail.
Peter Smith, Memphis
Just file the shank until you get the proper clearance. If desired, paint and burnish some Kadee graphite on the shank and coupler box. As a last resort, you can alter or change the box.
Thanks, I did try filing down the shank. I was successful on the long shank coupler because I could get a good grip on it. However, the long shank is too long at the front end of the 4-4-0 and I cannot get a grip on the short shank. ( I tried small pliers, a vise and spiking the coupler down) I also tried several ways of altering the front box with little success. I have had this same problem on my Spectrum ten wheeler. Any other suggestions would be welcome. It is too bad that Bachmann makes such shallow boxes but this might be done on purpose?
Peter smith, Memphis.
Peter,
If you continue to have troubles filing a metal shank, switch to a 30 series delrin in the appropriate length. The plastic will be more managable to thin. Some don’t like the #30 plastic, however, I have never had any issues with using them on all my Stewart Fs and other locos. I generally pull some fairly long trains as well.
As stated:
the box has to be secure to the car
the coupler has to be secure in the box
The coupler has to be the right height
The uncoupleing lever that hangs down has to have the correct bend. Here the Kadee tool is very helpful.
When all else fails, use Shelf couplers. You still have to meet the above standards, but on Spectrum passanger cars for instance and tight radiuses that is what works.
I found a solution. ( at least, for the front end of my 4-4-0. I am not sure if this was luck and/or just a one off situation)
Instead of using a Kadee whisker coupler, I used a #58 scale coupler along with ( only) the bronze centering spring piece. First I inserted the #58 coupler in the cast on Bachmann draft gear box. Then, I turned the bronze centering spring upside down so that it’s bottom surface was facing the tracks and fitted it in the Bachmann draft gear box on top of the coupler. I then reinstalled the Bachmann cover plate ( All the holes line up) and tightened it all down with the existing Bachmann screw. The upside down bronze centering piece acts like a big washer providing just enough additional space so that the Kadee coupler is free to work as intended within the shallow Bachmann cast on draft gear box and cover
Peter Smith, Memphis.
Thanks for all the advice.
And Blind Bruce, I run HO scale.