I used to build wooden kits like the Ambroid kit built in the December MR. I was looking forward to reading some modern tips but there weren’t many. One tip I was looking for was sanding sealer. I can’t find such a thing anymore. I used to use model airplane dope. That’s gone the way of the dodo bird. The article shows him applying something from a can but doesn’t tell what he used. I’d like to know.
GregW66
Most of the major paint manufacturers have a sanding sealer. I have used Minwax in the past.
Basically though, whatever you are going to use for the finish coat, can be used as a sanding sealer. Every coat you put on, fills just a little more. Lightly sanding between coats smooths/levels it out. Just keep doing it until you have the desired finish, and the wood is filled in the way you want it.
Mike.
Pretty much repeating Mike:
When I worked with wood model railroad kits, for sanding sealer I just used whatever leftover paint I had. I stayed in brand, Floquil, in this case.
Ed
I saw that on their website but it is a different world here in Canada. The local guy who sells all kinds of Minwax products looked at me funny when I asked for sanding sealer. I work in acrylic now so I’ll try something from the craft store.
My LHS, which doesn’t have much in the way of trains, DID have clear dope.
–Randy
I would suggest a thinned Mod-Podge or similar acrylic medium.
Try shellac. Available in hardware stores, dries fast, thins in alcohol. Accepts anything as a top coat. Give it a coat. Sand it a little bit, give it a second coat, and you have a good smooth surface.
That is my suggestion as well.
There are several brands, Kilz, B-I-N, Bulls Eye. The pigment will help fill voids in the grain and it is easily sandable after drying.
Mod-Podge? I’m not sure if the sanding qualities of this would be very good. I think it is a PVA based adhesive, like Elmer’s glue, and may not take paint too well either.
I could be wrong on that.
Good Luck, Ed
My thought as well, but you could also use a slightly thinned dregs in an old pint of polyurethane or varnish you have lying around. The idea is to have it penetrate a bit, fix, seal, and then lightly buff as a sanding procedure prior to the finishing coat. Maybe repeat as necessary prior to that finishing procedure.
I had a similar inquiry quite some time ago and it was suggested I use water based latex (white) paint. I plan to do so on some 7 Ambroid kits I have ready to go. The old hobby shop “Sanding Sealer” worked very well in taking out the grain appearance but I also believe several coats of the finish paint with light sanding will also work.
George T. Galyon
Hi guys,
Sorry for leaving that out.
I found Minwax Sanding Sealer at Home Depot. It’s acrylic, so easy water clean-up.
The paint guys there didn’t know they had it.
Eric