I am replacing the brushes on my 2343 santa fe and I am not sure how to do it. My problem is that there are too many wires. How do you keep track of which wire goes where?? Should i label my wires before i solder them off?? How do you clean the armature surface?? because its all black and needs to be cleaned. I heard you use a pencil eracer. thanks.
If you have a digital camera take lots of photos to keep track of the wires. Making notes can’t hurt. Too much information here is a good thing.
Clean the brushes and armature with denatured alcohol, and a cotton swab (Q-tip). You’ll have to install the brushes on the armature and fit the brushplate over the top because of the springs. It’s best to put the brushes back the way they came out, same direction, and location.
Rather tedious, but you can do it!
Kurt
good thing i have the operating manual for postwar trains. It tells where the wires all go to. I think i will have no problems. I plan on doing the overhaul next weekend. Cant wait to get started. thanks.
There should only be three wires going to the motor-yellow, blue, and green. The green always needs to go to the same place, but the yellow and blue can be reversed.
There’s also a small enamel-covered wire that goes from the wire-wound field core to the same solder tab where the green wire is connected. This wire is really the only one that needs to come off-the other three can stay in place.
So I can take off the brushplate with just removing the wire that goes to the field assembly? Should i unscrew the motor from the truck, so its easier to replace the brushes and clean the armature? Because I think I need to do that anyways because i have to oil and lube the worm shaft gear in the trucks. might have to do some cleaning of the drum in the e-unit. Its tough taking apart the e-unit with out losing some skin. Tough to put back together and make it all click together. done it before though, should be okay. As far as the horn, all looks good, no battery damage at all. Only thing that is not original is the 8 porthole lens, they are replacements. Loco has many miles on it, but still runs great and pulls my aluminum cars just fine. I have a question about running 2 locos at the same time. Can i run my 2343 and my 2353 back to back like AAAA?? as long as I have the motor in sync. will i mess up the motors cause one might be dragging or pushing to hard? thanks.
Unlike modern permanent-magnet (“can”) motors, the universal motors in the 2343 and 2353 will readily share the load. There is no danger in running them together.
You should be able to pull the brush plate back without de-soldering any wires. But then, like you suggest, a complete tear down, cleaning, and lubrication is a good idea.
Better label your wires. Also, there is a wire from the field coil that attaches to the center terminal of the brush plate. It is a good idea to disconnect this one because too much bending can break it.
Jim
I will be starting the overhaul this weekend. I think i will have to totaling gut the locos and clean everything, lube, oil, and check wiring. I have my new brushes ready to be put in. Does it matter if i used the carbon brushes, the gray ones, rather than the original bronze colored ones? does one or the other wear down the armature faceplate faster? Still looking for a B Unit to go with these AA Units. Thanks.
Lionel2…I’d take the guesswork out of the brushes and just use exact replacements, and I’d replace those old brush springs while you are at it…cheap. In my early 1960s slot car days we were experimenting with silver brushes to get some more hp out of the motors, but I don’t recall the outcome. This looks like a Bob Nelson question!
As for the wiring, I’d replace all that as well. Those seem to be the most common failures on my postwar stuff.
Jack
I don’t know which brush is best. I have had no noticeable problems with the carbon brushes. I have been told carbon brushes produce less friction on the comutator. If you do a tear down, one important thing to keep in mind is the bearing blocks in the truck frames that hold the worm gear shaft have a slight taper to them. They have to go back in exactly how they came out or the worm gear will bind. This is something people often miss and it can give you fits. Mark the sides that face you on each block with a dab of paint on a toothpick before you remove them so you know how they go back in.
Well, I am done with the overhaul, Did not have to take off the brushplates, i was able to clean the armatures without removing them. The horn does not work, the battery gets blazing hot. I think there is a short. But i can hear a little buzz when i put in battery. The brushes are originals, they look good, runs really strong, no battery damage at all. E-Unit cycles really good. It was disgusting inside the shell, all this hair and black stuff, like dust. Thanks.
For a “trick” install, try the shunted brushes. More power, less heat.
Rob
Rob…what are shunted brushes, and what are they made of?
Jack
Why was the D cell battery getting hot when i put it into my powered unit of the 2343?? you think there might be a short? how do i fix this??
lionel2,
Is the insulating paper between the battery bracket and frame? Is there a fibre washer between the head of each bracket mounting screw and the bracket? If the paper or washer(s) is missing, this could cause a short.
Same material, but instead of relying on the brush springs & brass tube brush holders to conduct the current, they have braided wire imbedded into them. You solder the wires to the motor connection with the wires from the E-unit at the regular point on the brush holders.
Rob
I figured out how to fix my horn on my 2343. I loosened the screws that hold the battery bracket. I loosened them until the horn sounded. Took some skill and some wits. I keep the e-unit in neutral, then keep hitting the whistle button, and then keep unscrewing til horn would sound continuously. Then put the shell back on. then on the track and now it works fine with the battery inside. The bracket is a little loose, but i think it just gets better current or whatever through it somehow. Tmr i will try this on my NYC 2344 and my 2321 FM. See if this solves my problems with my diesel horns. Some how my 2353 f3 is wired so I dont need to use a battery. I have no idea how that is wired up, but it works, thats all i care about. thanks.