Scalecoat "I" paint and plastic

Dunce that I am I ordered some Scalecoat paint from Walthers, and when it arrived I realized that i had ordered Scalecoat "I’ (for wood &metal) instead of Scalecoat “II” (for plastics). The instructions on the web indicates that the paint needs to be “baked on” (175 F) after it is applied…this doesn’t sound promising.

Has anyone used SCI on a plastic model? I figure I would at least need to use a primer coat to keep the paint from attacking the plastic, but does the SCI really need to be baked on? Any and all experience and tips would be greatly appreciated.

The color I bought isn’t available in SCII in a spray can, so I’ll be bummed if I can’t make this work somehow. An airbrush is on my wishlist, out of my budget for the time being.

Thanks

If it says it needs to be baked, then it definitely should be. 175 degrees is perfectly safe for most plastic (I baked my MDC Shay at 175F/80C, and the plastic parts were perfectly fine). As for the primer, I’ve used Testors/Model Master spray can primer with very good results. Just be sure to do very quick and even coats with spray cans, because they have a high output.

If you need an airbrush, give this one a try. I’ve been using mine for about 8 years now, and it’s given me a great finish every time.[:D] It’s powered by either a $10 can of Testors propellant or a compressor.

Will my wife kill me if I do this in the oven (ie noxious emmisions?)

I plan to practice as it has been a while…back in the old days of Revell car kits in the '80s…

Wow that’s cheap. I might have to take the plunge. What type of work do you normally do with it - mostly weathering, or painting entire shells? Can you get different nozzles for it? Have you had any problems with it?

Thanks

Hi Richard

I’m certainly no air-brush expert as some are on this forum, but I just found a dual action with accessories at Harbor Freight for $15.00!!! They also have a pretty good selection of small compressors for under $100.00. If you have one in yoour area, might be worth a look. Gerry S.

SC 1 can be used on plastics but you have to seal it with a primer. BUT, having said that, if you are not an experienced painter I would send it back and wait the 7-10 days for Walthers to ship you the SCII. This is a fine example of there is never time to do right, but there is always time to do it over. HOWEVER, there will be guys who can make SC1 work on plastics. AND don’t feel bad, my Walthers package tracking says my SCII white should be delivered today (I did the EXACT same thing and I sent the SC1 back and ordered the right stuff - I am comfortable with painting)

Check your in box for a little more

ratled

Baking paint will probably make a bad smell. You can probably get a cheap toaster oven that can do baking and use it outside if fumes are a problem.

I use mine for painting (my trains aren’t weathered). There aren’t any different nozzles, but the one it has is adjustable. The only problem I’ve had is an occasional clogging with Modelflex paints, but a thin wire is enough to open it back up. Cleaning it is very simple, so that’s another advantage it has. My most recent painting projects with it are my Shays.


Both of these were painted with Scalecoat II and Floquil paints from the airbrush, with a Model Master flat finish from a spray can.

There isn’t one in my area, but i will definitely shop around. I wasn’t really in the market until an hour ago.(still not really sure [:P])

I got the PM - thanks. I am considering sending it back as an option as well.

Instead of a toaster oven maybe I’ll look into an airbrush. Murphy’s law rules in my “workshop” such as it is, so the thought of baking my shells makes me anxious[X-)]

Besides, I think the neighbors might call the men in the white coats if they catch me on the lawn with a model train in a toaster oven on the front lawn[:-^][:D]

After seeing your pics I just might send the shells to you - very nice work!

Thanks for the help.

As far as using SC1 on plastic, I have done it but it takes a couple days to dry.

Do not bake a plastic model. I ruined a loco years ago and will not reattempt. Plastic comes in all different grades which have different melting points. So just because 175 deg will work on one model, doesn’t mean it works for all. The model that I ruined did not melt though, just warped enough that the shell would no longer fit on the frame.

Thanks for the input. I have sent the SCI back, and ordered SCII to replace it. The project is temporarily on hold until the accounting dept. approves purchase of an airbrush…maybe I can talk to the Easter Bunny and put in a good word for myself…